MALAYSIA
MALAYSIAN BORNEO – SABAH •• Danum Valley Conservation Area lonelyplanet.compick-up and drop-off prices – this is usually
extra. The ‘B&Bs’ along the Kinabatangan –
like the B&Bs elsewhere in Sabah – do not fit
the Western definition of a traditional bed
and breakfast. No dainty grey-haired dames
serving milk and cookies by the roaring fire –
these are basic, budget-friendly sleep spots,
many of which don’t even include breakfast
in the price.SUKAU
If you are planning to visit Sungai
Kinabatangan on your own, then Sukau is
your best option for lodging and river tours. A
paved road connects Sukau to the highway.
Sukau B&B (%019 583 5580, 089-565269; http://www.sukau
bnb.com; dm/s/tw incl breakfast RM20/40/40) The road
leading into Sukau ends here: a grassy knoll
with longhouse-style accommodation and a
small cottage in the back. It’s a good spot
for backpackers, sporting clean (and cheap!)
bedrooms and a passable shared bathroom
that doesn’t feel as cringe-worthy as a lot of
backwater backpacker places in Borneo. Two-
hour cruises cost RM80 per boat (six persons
maximum), night cruises are RM100.
Sukau Greenview B&B (%013 869 6922, 089-
565266; [email protected]; s/tw RM45/60, meals
RM10) Another cheapie in central Sukau, this
pleasant option offers nine rooms (all with
twin-size beds) in a small Cape Cod–style
lodge. It’s basic (the floors are made from
particle board) but comfy enough for the
price. River cruises cost RM35, night rides
are RM45 and trips to Oxbow Lake are RM45
(prices are per person). The friendly owners
can organise a Sandakan-bound van (RM30
per person) when you depart – it leaves
at 6.30am.
Barefoot Sukau Lodge (%089-235525; http://www.bare
footsukau.com; r per person RM80, meals RM25) Barefoot’s
best features are the scenic eating area yawn-
ing over the river and the super-smiley
staff (the English is a bit thin, but they get
an ‘A’ for effort). The rooms are small but
covered with thick coats of white paint. A
two-day/one-night package costs RM200 and
includes accommodation, three meals and
one cruise.BILIT
Bilit is the new Sukau, with its own collection
of jungle lodges and homestays. All of the ac-
commodation here is located at the end of a
very rutty road (4WD needed!) or on the farside of the river, which means that independ-
ent travel here is not as simple as in Sukau.
oNature Lodge Kinabatangan^ (%^013
863 6263, 088-230534; http://www.naturelodgekinabatangan.com)
Located just around the river bend from Bilit,
this charming jungle retreat is an excellent
choice for backpacker budgets. The campus of
prim bungalows is divided into two sections:
the Civet Wing caters to penny-pinchers with
dorm-style huts, while the spiffed-up Agamid
Wing offers higher-end twin-bed chalets. A
three-day/two-night package (includes three
boat tours, three guided hikes and all meals!) is
RM300 for a dorm and RM335 for a chalet.
Kinabatangan Jungle Camp (%089-533190; www
.kinabatangan-jungle-camp.com) This earth-friendly
retreat caters to a niche market of birders and
serious nature junkies. A two-day/one-night
package (including three meals, two boat
rides, guiding and transfers) will set you back
RM400. The owners, Robert and Annie, also
run the Labuk B&B in Sepilok, and four out of
five travellers opt for a Kinabatangan–Sepilok
combo tour.Getting There & Away
Taking a bus instead of tour-operated
transport to – or at least near – Sungai
Kinabatangan can save quite a bit of cash. To
reach Sungai Kinabatangan by bus from KK,
board a Tawau- or Lahad Datu–bound bus
and ask the driver to let you off at Meeting
Point (sometimes called Sukau Junction) –
the turn-off road to reach Sukau. If you are
on a Sandakan-bound bus, make sure your
driver remembers to stop at the Tawau-
Sandakan junction – it’s called Batu 32
or Checkpoint (sometimes it’s known as
Sandakan Mile 32). It should cost no more
than RM30 to reach Meeting Point from KK.
From Sepilok or Sandakan, expect to pay
around RM15 to reach Batu 32, and around
RM20 if you’re on a Sandakan–Tawau bus
and want to alight at Meeting Point. You
can arrange transport from these drop-off
points with your tour operator or with a
local minivan.DANUM VALLEY CONSERVATION AREA
They say that at any given time, there are
over a hundred scientists doing research in
the Danum Valley. And we aren’t surprised- this steaming primary forest overflows with
colourful wildlife. It’s like owning one of those
relaxation machines that coos and caws when
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