MALAYSIA
MALAYSIAN BORNEO – SABAH •• Semporna Archipelago lonelyplanet.comshattered earthen pot – each sandy chunk
a lonely spot on the ocean’s mirrorlike sur-
face. Bands of sun-kissed sea gypsies patrol
the waters scooping up snapping crabs and
ethereal shells. But another world exists
below – a silent realm inspiring even more
wonder and awe. Sipadan’s technicolour sea
walls reach deep down – 2000m to the dis-
tant ocean floor – and act like an underwater
beacon luring docile turtles, slippery sharks
and waving mantas.
Although Sipadan outshines the neigh-
bouring sites, there are other reefs in the
marine park that are well worth exploring.
The macro-diving around Mabul (or Pulau
Mabul to some) is world-famous. In fact, the
term ‘muck diving’ was invented here. The
submerged sites around Kapalai, Mataking and
Sibuan are also of note.
The following dive operators are among
the growing laundry list of companies in the
area. It is highly recommended that you book
in advance (see p492 ).
Billabong Scuba (%089-781866; http://www.bil
labongscuba.com; Lot 28, Block E, Semporna Seafront)
Semporna-based outfitted with reasonable prices. Ac-
commodation can be arranged at a rickety homestay on
Mabul.
Blue Sea Divers (%089-781322; http://www.thereefdivers
.com; Semporna Seafront) Reputable day-trip operator in
Semporna.
Borneo Divers (Map p493 ; %088-222226; www
.borneodivers.info; 9th fl, Menara Jubili, 53 Jalan Gaya,
Kota Kinabalu) The original operators in the area, Borneo
Divers were the good folks who unveiled Sipadan to an
awestruck Jacques Cousteau. Recommended.
Scuba Junkie (%089-784788; http://www.scuba-junkie
.com; Lot 36, Block B, Semporna Seafront) Popular with
the young backpacker crowd, Scuba Junkie invented the
hard sell in Semporna. Prices are kept low and diving gear
is well maintained.
Sipadan Scuba (%089-784788, 919128; www
.sipadanscuba.com; Lot 23, Block D, Semporna Seafront)
Twenty years of Borneo experience and an international
staff makes Sipadan Scuba a reliable choice. This is
the only PADI 5 Star Instructor Development Centre in
Semporna.
Uncle Chang (Borneo Jungle River Island Tours; %089-
785372; http://www.scuba-junkie.com; 36 Semporna Seafront)
Offers diving and snorkelling day trips, plus stays at its
lodge on Mabul.Sleeping
Sleeping spots are sprinkled across the ar-
chipelago, with the majority of options clus-tered on the peach-fringed island of Mabul
(Sipadan’s closest neighbour). All options
include three meals per day in the price.
Divers and snorkellers can also opt to stay
in the town of Semporna, which offers a
slightly better bang for your buck, but you’ll
miss out on post-dive chill sessions along
flaxen strips of sand.
Mabul Beach Resort (%089-784788, 089-919128;
http://www.sipadanscuba.com; r per person RM80-120) Owned
and operated by Scuba Junkie, this brand-new
spot on Mabul is shaking things up for shoe-
stringers. No more are the days of dingy ‘long-
house’ accommodation. Most of the resort
was still under construction when we visited,
but we think it looks very promising!
The following options are located within
Mabul’s ‘town’ (and we use that term lightly)
of sea shanties. The quality is fairly similar at
all four places: in need of an upgrade. At the
time of research we noticed a couple of reno-
vation attempts underway, but guests should
still expect uber-basic digs in wobbly shacks,
flimsy mattresses, grim toilet stalls, cold show-
ers, floating pieces of rubbish, and roosters
crowing in the early morning.
Arung Hayat Resort (%089-782526; r/ste per person
RM50/80) An autonomous homestay with low-slung
beds, baby-blue walls and plenty of smiles. Also caters to
nondivers.
Billabong (%089-781866; r per person RM50) Six basic
rooms hovering on stilts above the ebbing tide. Associated
accommodation for Billabong Scuba.
Uncle Chang’s (%089-781002; http://www.sipadanback
packers.com; dm/s/d per person RM50/120/60, d with
aircon & private bathroom per person RM90; a) A
Sipadan backpacking stalwart catering to the like-named
dive operator. We’ve received reports from several
travellers that a charming family of rats also calls this
place home.
Lai’s Homestay (r per person RM60) Features a large,
wood-planked verandah stretching over the sea. Slightly
newer, but still shanty-esque.Getting There & Around
All transportation to the marine park is
funnelled through the town of Semporna.
Tourists who are staying on one of the many
offshore islets must book ahead as space is
quite limited and there is no public transpor-
tation to any of the archipelago’s islands. Your
accommodation will arrange any transporta-
tion needs (usually for an extra fee), which
will most likely depart in the morning (mean-
ing that if you arrive in Semporna in the after-506