MALAYSIAlonelyplanet.com MALAYSIAN BORNEO – SARAWAK •• Batang Rejang
to the rest of Kapit’s dining scene, which is
overwhelmingly Chinese, this market is al-
most exclusively Malay-Muslim. As such the
emphasis is on satay and other halal dishes.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Express boats leave for Sibu between 6.30am
and 2.30pm (for information on boats from
Sibu, see p517 ). The trip takes three hours and
tickets are RM20 for economy, or RM25 to
RM30 for 1st class. Boats depart for Belaga
(RM30, five to six hours) at 9am. When the
river is low, express boats can’t get past the
Pelagus Rapids, and smaller speedboats are
used instead. Fares start at RM50. Express boats
bound for the Batang Baleh depart before noon
and go as far as Rumah Penghilu Jambi (RM30,
four to five hours), an Iban longhouse. The last
boat back to Kapit departs Rumah Penghilu
Jambi at 12.30pm.Visiting the Longhouse
When you arrive at a longhouse, you may be surprised to find that it’s quite modernised, with
satellite TV, electric lighting, corrugated iron and other upgrades – after all, even if their manner
of living is old-fashioned, the people here are living in the 21st century. A longhouse is a way of
life, not just a building. It embodies a communal lifestyle and a very real sense of mutual reliance
and responsibility, and it is this spirit rather than the physical building that makes a visit special.
Do your best to engage with the inhabitants of any community you are allowed to enter, rather
than just wandering around snapping photographs.
Depending on the various goings-on at the longhouse, you may or may not spend time with
the tuai rumah (chief ) – although he (it’s always a he) will usually ‘show face’ as it is impolite
for him not to do so. Your guide will usually be the one showing you where to sleep – either
on the verandah, in a specially built hut next door, or in a resident’s living room within the
longhouse itself.
If you are travelling with your own guide, he or she will be in charge of organising your meals –
whether it’s a separately prepared repast, or a feast with some of the longhouse residents. The Iban
in particular like to honour their guests by offering meat on special occasions. Vegetarians and
vegans should be adamant about their dietary restrictions as vegetable dishes are often served in a
chicken sauce. Meals will be plentiful no matter what, and it is not considered rude or disrespectful
to bring your own food. Two important things to remember when eating with longhouse residents:
don’t put your feet near the food (which is always served in a family-style communal fashion) and
don’t step over anyone’s plate if you need to excuse yourself from the eating area.
After dinner, when the generators start clicking off, it’s time hunker down with the evening’s
bottle of milky white broth: rice wine, or tuak. You’ll be a big hit if you bring a bottle of brand-
name liquor – ‘Johnny Walker’ and ‘Southern Comfort’ are oftentimes the extent of the locals’
English vocabulary. The ceremonial shot glass will be passed from person to person amid chitchat
and belly laughter. Drink the shot when it’s your turn (you won’t really have a choice – those
Iban women can be pretty forceful!) and pass the glass along. Tu a k may taste mild but it is
pretty potent stuff, and you can expect a stunning hangover the next day. When you reach your
limit, simply press the rim of the glass with your finger like you’re pushing an eject button. If
that doesn’t work then feign a sudden medical condition. Smiles, big hand gestures and dirty
jokes go a long way, even in your native language (and it’ll all be second nature when you’re
nice and lubricated!).Gifts
Gift giving has become rather controversial over the last few years, with locals, tourists and
tour operators offering a wide variety of advice on the subject. Longhouse communities do not
traditionally require gifts from guests; in fact, some say that the tradition of gift giving actually
began when travellers started visiting. Your best bet to avoid any awkward cultural miscommu-
nications is to ask your guide for their opinion. Some travellers bring an item that can be shared
over glasses of rice wine. Any way you do it, gifts are never a must, nor are they expected. Many
tourists prefer contributing to the longhouse economy by taking a local longboat trip or buying
one of the handicrafts for sale.519