National Geographic

90 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC • FEBRUARY 2018The small fragmented nature of Chinese farmsis the crucial difference from Western ones, andit’s antithetical to the way much of the industri-alized world produces food. If China is to meetits changing appetites with domestic crops,“there are a number of changes that we need,”says Huang Jikun, an agricultural economist atPeking University. Irrigation must be upgrad-ed, he says, and technology and mechanizationneed to expand. But the first thing that feedingChina from home requires, he says, is enlargingthe country’s small farms.The solution might seem simple: replace thepatchwork quilt with a vast blanket that canbe mowed down in one fell swoop. But Huangcautions that big isn’t always best. China’sstaple crops of corn, rice, and wheat all yield themost food per acre at modest scales: One studysuggested the sweet spot is between five and 17acres. “If you’ve got a very small farm, a farmer``````is out there weeding and working very intensely,”notes Fred Gale, a senior economist at the U.S.Department of Agriculture, and crop yields peracre will reflect that, often being higher than ifa large machine is used. China’s plan is not tomerge the holdings of small farmers like Jiangand Ping into Kansas-style farms. That wouldbe nearly impossible logistically and would alsospur social disruption by uprooting millions offarmers. For now, at least, the idea is to clusteradjoining fields into farms about the size of aWalmart Supercenter parking lot.Spend a few days with Jiang and Ping, and itcan be hard to fathom that China also has someof the most sophisticated industrial farms in theworld. The epitome of that is in the meat anddairy industries, which officials have modeledafter those in the West. To see for myself, I had togo to eastern China, where I visited a four-year-old dairy bigger than most in the United States.farmland is split among about 200 million farms.China’s agricultural landscape looks less like ablanket of green than a patchwork quilt.Jiang and Ping’s patches adjoin their village—mud-walled houses arrayed in clutches alongpaved streets that dead-end in cornfields. Theirarea is known as Team Seven, a remnant of thecollective period under Mao Zedong, when thestate told farmers what to farm and took mostof what they produced. Jiang and Ping livedthrough the great famine in the late 1950s andearly 1960s; Jiang can recall eating boiled barkand leather belts when food ran out. After thecollective system ended in 1981, the state keptownership of the land but distributed the rightsto cultivate it equally among villagers.That process gave Jiang and Ping less thanthree acres divided among four sites. They dis-patch their daughter, a 36-year-old tour- companyworker visiting her parents from Kunming,1,200 miles away, to show me their farm. Underhot, clear skies Jiang Yuping, wearing whitejeans, knockoff Vans, and a melon-coloredoff-shoulder blouse, leads me to the end of thestreet. I see a tiny, mud-walled building adjacentto an irrigation canal and ask why an outhouseis placed so close to water. She blinks. “It’s likea temple for worship,” she says, eyeing me skep-tically. As I apologize, she turns to point out herfamily’s stevia fields, an acre patch of short,emerald- hued plants bound for sweetener. Wewalk farther, and she shows me the family’s halfacre of flaxseed, planted beneath a factory’sspindly chimney. A couple kilometers down atwo-lane highway are the daikon, lettuce, andcorn plots. Later she talks about her parents andhow she wishes their farm could be more likean American one. “Look at China: Most land isdifficult to manage,” she tells me. “There is awaste of human labor and resources.”ONE CHALLENGE: GETTING MORE OUT OF CHINA’S PATCHWORK