cooks the food that she loves and presents it in a way that meets
her very exacting standards. Still, Quatrano doesn’t see it that
way: “I’m hugely responsible for lots of people, and that’s not an
autonomous kind of feeling. Everything I do directly affects them.”
Try as I might to convince her that she achieved precisely what
she set out to achieve, her unspoken message back to me is clear:
Go peel a grape.