and analog,” says Pomeroy. “We’re very analog. We like the
scratches and pops.”) Control is a tricky issue for many eaters.
After all, eating is an intimate act: most diners want to have some
say in what they feed their bodies. But when you put yourself
into the hands of someone who knows what they’re doing, or,
inversely, when you let others put themselves into your hands, the
results can be sublime. “You can just feel it,” Pomeroy tells me
before I leave that night. “You can just tell when food is made with
a measure of love in the heart.”
Like a mother who meddles in her children’s lives because she
wants the very best for them, Pomeroy meddles with her dinner
plates until they’re exactly what she thinks should be eaten. Some
may call her a control freak, but it’s her insistence on control that
makes her food taste so good.