and talk to Chris Gerage, who was also a chef for Pino at one point, and
we discuss what's good for tomorrow. I go for some wild striped bass,
some king salmon, and some baby octopus for appetizer special. Dry
goods, I'm locked in for the weekend—no Saturday deliveries—but I
start building a Monday list anyway. From D'Artagnan, I'll need some
more foie gras by Monday, some duck bones, maybe some magret, and
maybe I'll splurge on some fresh black trumpets and some chanterelles
for a special—José will be thrilled—and since wild boar has been a big
moneymaker for me lately, maybe I'll make up on the boar what I lose
on the 'shrooms. I add two boar legs to my D'Artagnan list. Segundo
knows exactly what I'm going to ask him and in what order—he's ready
for me.
We go through the familiar list of items, in my inept, but still useful
Spanish: "Mesclun?"
"Veinte," he replies.
"Cebolla blanca"
"Una"
"Shallot?"
"Tres."
And so on . . .
Dairy has to be in early or they'll call me which I hate. So I call the
Monday dairy in right away: two poly milks, four 55-pound blocks of
sweet butter, one case of heavy cream ultra, a case of large eggs.
Gourmand, another specialty purveyor, needs lead time—they ship out
of Washington, DC, so I get that order together as quickly as possible:
haricots de Tarbe, the expensive white beans we use for cassoulet