PeloPonneseL A K O N I APeloPonneseSLEEPING& EATINGPeloPonneseM
Y S Tr A Sstructed between 1250 and 1450 and the
main palace between 1350 and 1400.
The right fork leads down to the Monem-
vasia Gate, the entrance to the lower town.
Through the gate, turn right to reach the
14th-century Convent of Pantanassa. This
features a beautifully ornate stone-carved fa-
cade and is still maintained by nuns, Mystras’
only inhabitants besides the motley crew of
stray cats. The convent is an elaborate, per-
fectly proportioned building that’s never
overstated. The exquisite, richly coloured
15th-century frescoes here are among the
finest examples of late-Byzantine art. Look
out for the tiny stamped silver and gold vo-
tive offerings beneath the large icon of the
Virgin. You’ll find images of eyes, ears, legs,
arms, breasts, babies, husbands and wives
stamped onto these small tablets, depending
on the problems (health or personal life) for
which the faithful are hoping for supernatu-
ral help. The nuns ask that, before entering,
you cover bare legs with the cloths provided.
The path continues down to the Monas-
tery of Perivleptos, which is built into a
rock and tucked away in a pine grove. In-
side, the 14th-century frescoes, preserved
virtually intact, equal those of Pantanassa.
The church has a very high dome and in the
centre you’ll find the Pantokrator (the Byz-
antine depiction of Christ as the universal,
all-powerful ruler) surrounded by the Apos-
tles, and the Virgin flanked by two angels.
Continue down towards the Mitropolis
and you’ll pass Agios Georgios, one of Mys-
tras’ many private chapels. Further down,
and above the path on the left, is the Laska-
ris Mansion, a typical Byzantine house.
The Mitropolis (Cathedral of Agios Dim-
itrios) is a complex of buildings enclosed by
a high wall. The original church was built in
the 1200s, but was greatly altered in the 15th
century. The church stands in an attractive
courtyard surrounded by stoae and balco-
nies. Its impressive ecclesiastical ornaments
and furniture include a marble iconostasis,
an intricately carved wooden throne, and a
marble slab in the floor featuring a two-head-
ed eagle (the symbol of Byzantium) located
on the exact site where Emperor Constantine
XI was crowned. The church also has some
fine frescoes. Exhibits at the small but mod-
ern museum upstairs include fragments of
ancient cloth, buttons, jewellery and other
everyday items of Mystras’ inhabitants.
Beyond the Mitropolis is the Vrontokh-
ion Monastery. This was once the wealth-
iest monastery of Mystras, the focus of cul-
tural activities and the burial place of the
despots. Of its two churches, Agios Theo-
doros and Aphentiko, the latter is the more
impressive, with striking frescoes.4 Sleeping & Eating
There are some upmarket guesthouses
around the village of Mystras and further
out. Pikoulianika is an equally good village
at which to base yourself, and it has better
eating options than Mystras.Mystras Castle Town APArTMENT €
(%27310 20047; http://www.mystras-castle-town.com;
d/tr/q €45/50/55; pW) Run by a friendly
Russian-Greek couple, these compact, fully
equipped apartments are excellent value
and just a stone’s throw from Mystras’ main
square. Balconies look out onto the Mystras
ruins, and the owners can provide a full
breakfast (€4 per person). Wi-fi comes and
goes like a stray cat.Castle View CAMPGrOuND €
(%27310 83303; http://www.castleview.gr; camp sites
per adult/tent/car €6/4/4, 2-person bungalow €25;
hApr-Oct; Ws) This recently renovated
campground, set amoung olive trees, fea-
tures a restaurant, pool and hot showers.
Owners are happy to give tips on hiking in
the Taÿgetos Mountains. It’s about 1km be-
fore Nea Mystras village.TACKLING MYSTRASAt least three hours are needed to do jus-
tice to the ruins of Mystras. Start early
in the morning to beat the tour groups;
wear sensible shoes; and bring water
(you can refill at the monastery). The
site is divided into two interconnected
sections – the kastro (the fortress on
the summit) and the hora (upper town),
accessible from the fortress gate; and
the kato hora (lower town), accesible
via the main gate.
If you don’t have your own wheels,
it makes sense to catch a taxi to the
fortress gate and walk down. If you do
have a car, it’s best to cover the lower
town first (as it has the lion’s share of
attractions) from the main gate and
then head up to the fortress gate to visit
the fortress and the upper town ruins.
You can use the same ticket to re-enter
at either entrance.