Greece 12 - Peloponnese

PeloPonnese

L A K O N I A

PeloPonnese

SIGHTS

PeloPonnese

MONEMVASIA

ries, each adding their own elements to the
architectural melange. During the War of
Independence its Turkish inhabitants were
massacred after their surrender, following
a three-month siege; the fortress remained
impregnable to the end, its only weakness
being the food supply.
Falling into obscurity by the 18th century,
Monemvasia was revived as a luxury desti-
nation in the 1970s.

1 Sights

oKastro – Medieval Town HISTOrIC SITE
Almost wholly surrounded by ocean,
Monemvasia’s fortified medieval village is
divided into the lower town, bisected by
a main cobbled street lined with souvenir
shops and tavernas that leads to the main
square, and the upper town, with its ruins
and fortress. The greatest pleasure of vis-
iting the kastro comes from wandering the
labyrinth: exploring the tiny alleyways and
winding stairways that weave between a
complex network of stone houses, and duck-
ing into atmospheric nooks and crannies.
In the lower town, the central square is
dominated by the Cathedral of Christos
Elkomenos, dating from the 13th century.
Head up through the stone archway oppo-
site the bell tower and you come across the
handsome 17th-century Church of Myr-
tidiotissa. Down near the waterfront for-
tifications is the whitewashed 16th-century
Church of Panagia Chrysafitissa.
The path to the fortress and the upper
town is signposted off the main street in sev-
eral locations. A walking path skirts the edge
of the upper-town ruins all the way to just
above the main gate, affording great views
of Monemvasia’s cluster of rooftops against
a cliff backdrop. The upper town’s extensive
ruins were undergoing intensive restoration
at the time of research but its paths should
reopen in 2016. Don’t miss the Church of
Agia Sofia, which perches on the edge of a
sheer cliff, and mind you don’t fall down the
overgrown cisterns.

Monemvasia Archaeological
Collection MuSEuM
(%27320 61403; adult/concession €2/1;
h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) This small museum
housed in a former temple displays finds
unearthed in the course of old town exca-
vations, such as pottery from Asia Minor,
cementing Monemvasia’s status as an im-
portant trading post. The star turn is the
templon (chancel screen) from an 11th-
century church. Other objects of note in-

clude a marble door frame from the Church

of Agia Sofia, coats of arms (the trend intro-

duced by Frankish invaders) and well-heads

of ancient cisterns.

4 Sleeping

There’s no budget accommodation in the

kastro itself; accommodation is cheaper in

Gefyra. Prices fluctuate drastically depending

on supply and demand. In November and

February Monemvasia pretty much shuts

down. A torch (flashlight) is a good idea for

those staying in the cobbled, dimly lit kastro.

Flower of Monemvasia HOTEL €

(%27320 61395; http://www.flower-hotel.gr; Gefyra; d €42-

55, tr €54-70, ste €84, all incl breakfast; paW) Lo-

cated in mainland Gefyra, opposite Monem-

vasia’s kastro, this clean, modern spot is a far

cry from the region’s more traditional offer-

ings. Nearly all 20 rooms have sea views and

some have kitchenettes. Staff are very helpful.

Hotel Filoxenia HOTEL €

(%27320 61716; http://www.filoxenia-monemvasia.gr; d/

tr €53/66; paW) Spotless cheapie off Ge-

fyra’s main street, with views of the Monem-

vasia rock from its balconies. Breakfast €5.

Hotel Byzantino HOTEL €€

(%27320 61351; http://www.hotelbyzantino.com; Mon-

emvasia; d €55-110, tr €90-115, q €125; aW)

This range of atmospheric rooms offers a

great experience of the traditional kastro;

rooms occupy around five different build-

ings and come in varying shapes, sizes and

prices (from cheaper rooms with no views to

smarter digs with sea-facing balconies and

vaulted stone ceilings); most are decked out

in antiques. Extensive Greek breakfast costs

€6. Wi-fi in lounge only.

Malvasia Traditional Hotel HOTEL €€

(%27320 61160; http://www.malvasiahotel-traditional.

gr; d/tr/q incl breakfast from €65/120/160; aW)

One of Monemvasia’s oldest and most estab-

lished hotels makes the most of traditional

architecture. Its renovated rooms feature

heavy wooden beams, light, bright colour

schemes and contemporary art; some are

cosy, cave-like nooks with vaulted stone ceil-

ings. The pricier rooms come with sea views;

some have balconies overlooking the water.

Wi-fi in lobby only.

oMoni Emvasis

Luxury Suites BOuTIQuE HOTEL €€€

(%27320 62022; http://www.moniemvasis.gr; ste incl

breakfast €240-340; aW) Consisting of just