Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro

(Marcin) #1

Apply moisturizer and makeup over sunscreen.


Reapply during the day, depending on your rate of perspiration and the amount of sun exposure you get.


Tip


Use the equivalent of a shot glass of sunscreen — that’s two tablespoons — to cover skin from head to toe.


Skincare Glossary


There are many terms and ingredients associated with skincare products. What follows is only a basic list. While there are no miracles when it comes to the skin, a
clear understanding of how ingredients function will help you select the right skincare products.


ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAS) are naturally occurring acids found in fruits and milk, used topically to reduce the appearance of fine lines. AHAs help speed up the
skin’s natural exfoliation process, helping it shed dead skin cells. They can improve the texture of skin, unclog pores, and help prevent breakouts. Glycolic acid is
one of the commonly used AHAs. Do not use products containing salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid), which is too harsh for general exfoliation, as they are
intended for use only on problem skin areas.


ANTI-AGING: The best anti-aging formula is a healthy lifestyle. Nothing will stop the clock. Poor diet, excessive drinking, smoking, lack of exercise, and sunburn all
accelerate the effects of aging on the skin.


ANTIOXIDANTS help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, molecules with an unpaired electron. They cause oxidation that can damage cellular
material. Vitamins A, C, and E, beta-carotene, green tea, and grape seed extract are all highly effective antioxidants.


BALMS are super-rich moisturizers that target dry patches of skin on face, hands, feet, and body. Look for ingredients such as avocado extract or shea butter. For a
subtle glow, I warm some in my hands and pat on the cheeks after applying makeup.


BASE is a term that generally refers to a product applied under foundation to smooth and protect the skin. Bases often contain a mix of vitamins, antioxidants, and
anti-aging ingredients. Previous generations referred to foundation color as base.


BRIGHTENER: Makeup products sometimes contain light-diffusing particles and/or ingredients that inhibit oxidation. Both of these are referred to as brighteners.


COLLAGEN is a fibrous protein found in skin. When collagen levels in the skin are high, the skin appears firm. Levels of collagen decline as we age. As the support
provided by the collagen is reduced, wrinkles begin to form. Injections temporarily replace lost collagen. The topical application of peptides may have a similar
effect.


EMOLLIENTS (squalane, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, glycerin, lanolin, petroleum, shea butter, and others) hold moisture in the skin and make the skin soft and
supple.


EXFOLIATORS are designed to help slough off dead skin cells. Look for scrubs designed for the face.


FIXERS are sprays that set makeup. Makeup is also typically set with powders.


GREEN TEA EXTRACT (Camellia sinensis) is a powerful antioxidant found in many anti-aging products that may slow down photo aging.


HUMECTANTS (glycerin, algae extract, sodium hyaluronate, urea, lactic acid, panthenol and others) absorb water from the air and help the skin retain moisture.


HYALURONIC ACID (sodium hyaluronate) is a fluid that surrounds the joints and is found in skin tissue. Aging slows the production of this acid, so it is often
supplemented as an anti-aging treatment. It is used as filler for wrinkles (injection) and can be applied topically or taken in pill form. It is often added to moisturizer
and works to hydrate skin.


OXIDANTS are unstable molecules caused by pollution, smoke, ultraviolet light, toxins, and other environmental factors. Also known as free radicals, they attack and

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