OXIDANTS are unstable molecules caused by pollution, smoke, ultraviolet light, toxins, and other environmental factors. Also known as free radicals, they attack and
damage the skin, leading to premature aging.
PEPTIDES are two or more amino acids bonded together, forming a linear molecule. The molecules can transfer biologically active agents (green tea, vitamin E,
copper) to cells, renewing them. Algae peptides are used in some firming formulations. Copper peptides have been used for years to aid in wound healing. Labels
might indicate that a product contains pentapeptides (five peptides) or polypeptides (many peptides).
PHOTO AGING is sun damage.
RETINOIDS (Retin-A, retinal, Renova) are powerful vitamin A derivatives used to fight acne and help build collagen to reverse visible signs of aging. The drug is
effective in reducing fine lines around the eyes and mouth, not deep wrinkles. Inflammation and peeling are common side effects from use, which can last from two
weeks to months. Because the drug makes skin more sensitive to the sun, use of a sunscreen is essential. Pregnant women and those planning a pregnancy should
avoid this drug, since it is not known how much Retin-A is absorbed through the skin, and high doses of vitamin A can cause birth defects. Natural sources of
retinoids include yams, tomatoes, fish-liver oils, melon, squash, and leafy green vegetables.
SERUMS are concentrated, corrective skin treatments that are packed with highly effective active ingredients that address specific skin concerns like dullness and
uneven skin tone. Ingredients commonly found in serums include vitamin C, green tea extract, and white birch extract. For best results, serums should be applied
after cleansing, before moisturizer.
SPF (sun protection factor) measures the degree of protection a product provides against the sun’s UVB rays. The formula used divides the minutes it takes to burn
wearing a thick application of the product by the minutes the same person takes to burn without any sunscreen. There is no current rating system for UVA
protection.
SQUALENE (natural, unsaturated) is derived from shark-liver oil. It is very emollient and has some germicidal benefits.
TYROSINASE INHIBITORS (kojic acid, hydroquinone)all prevent browning or age spots on the skin. Licorice (glycyrrhiza glabrd) has been used for centuries to
lighten and brighten skin.
VITAMIN B3 (niacinamide) is a water soluble vitamin found in yeast, eggs, liver, and vegetables that helps increase the amount of fatty acids in the skin, promoting
exfoliation and firmness.
VITAMIN C (ascorbic acid) is an antioxidant that can reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and create a more even skin tone. It protects the skin from
atmospheric pollution and from ultraviolet light. Vitamin C also helps convert inactivated vitamin E back to the active, antioxidant form of vitamin E. Vitamin C is
involved in the formation of elastin and plays a role in converting proline, an amino acid, into collagen. Vitamin C increases collagen manufacture, reducing the
appearance of wrinkles. The production of melanin is an oxidative process that causes pigmentation. As an antioxidant, vitamin C counteracts the oxidative process.
High doses of vitamin C reduce the pigmentation of scars and make them less noticeable. Vitamin C is found in fresh fruits and vegetables.