0 The New Complete Book of Food
on the surface of the meat, leaving a slimy film in their wake, and convert the meat’s sulfur-
containing amino acids (tryptophan, methionine, and cystine) into smelly chemicals called
mercaptans. The combination of mercaptans with myoglobin, a pigment in blood that trans-
fers oxygen hemoglobin to muscle tissues, creates the greenish pigment that makes rotten
meat look so unpleasant.
Wrap fresh meat carefully before storing to keep the drippings from spilling and con-
taminating other food or the refrigerator/freezer shelves.
Preparing This Food
Brains. First wash the brains under cold running water and pull off the membranes. Then
put the brains in a bowl of cold water and let them soak for a half hour. Change the water; let
them soak for another half hour. Repeat the process one more time, for a total soaking time
of an hour and a half. Now drain the water, put the brains in a saucepan, cover with water,
add a tablespoon or two of acid (lemon juice or vinegar) to firm the brains, and cook them for
20 to 25 minutes over low heat without boiling. Drain and use as your recipe directs.
Kidneys. Pull off the white membrane and rinse the kidneys thoroughly under plenty of
cold running water. Cut them in half, remove the inner core, and rinse once again. Slice
them and use as your recipe directs. (Beef kidneys have a strong, distinctive flavor that can
be toned down by soaking the kidneys for an hour in a solution of 1 teaspoon lemon juice to
1 cup of water before cooking.)
Heart. Cut out the blood vessels, rinse the heart thoroughly (inside and out) under cold
running water, and prepare as your recipe directs.
Sweetbreads. Rinse the sweetbreads thoroughly under cold running water and soak in ice
water for at least an hour, changing the water until it remains clear and free of blood. Then
drain the sweetbreads and blanch them in water plus two teaspoons of acid (lemon juice or
vinegar) to firm them. Drain the sweetbreads, cover them with ice water, and remove mem-
branes and connective tissue. Then use as your recipe directs.
Tongue. Scrub the tongue with a vegetable brush under cold running water. Cover it with
cold water, bring the water to a boil, and cook the tongue at a simmer for 30 minutes or soak
and cook as directed on the package. Drain the tongue, peel off the skin, cut away the gristle
and small bones, and prepare as your recipe directs. Some smoked tongues require long soak-
ing, even overnight; check the directions on the package.
Tripe. Virtually all the tripe sold in markets today has been blanched and boiled until ten-
der. All you have to do is wash it thoroughly under cold running water and use it as directed
in your recipe. If you have to start from scratch with tripe, wash it in several changes of cold
water, boil it for several hours until tender, then use as your recipe directs.
When you are done, clean all utensils thoroughly with soap and hot water. Wash your
cutting board, wood or plastic, with hot water, soap, and a bleach-and-water solution. For
ultimate safety in preventing the transfer of microorganisms from the meats to other foods,