National Geographic

EXPLORE | OUT OF EDEN WALKAFGHANISTAN is a place, not a war.Taliban suicide bombings may dominate the news, but thesprawling Central Asian country—bigger than France—embracesa cosmos. One of its least visited corners, the rugged Wakhancorridor, is an Afghanistan as few outsiders imagine it: shieldedfrom violence by the Hindu Kush mountain range, locked in amore idyllic time, and shining with alpine light.Last summer I hiked through this utterly remote wildernesshemmed by the mountain walls of Tajikistan, Pakistan, and west-ern China. For weeks photographer Matthieu Paley joined me, andwe trekked up valleys where peaceful Ismaili farmers threshedwheat in the biblical way, under the hooves of oxen. Waterwheelsspun in icy creeks, grinding out flour. Villagers tending apricotorchards at the foot of glaciers were barely aware of the bloodshedin the distant capital, Kabul.We traversed the largely roadless landscape in the same wayearly Silk Road travelers had: with pack donkeys. “Zabardast!”we cried, urging them up a nearly 14,000-foot pass. It’s a localcommand that translates roughly as “superb” or “fantastic” or“powerful”—words that describe the Wakhan itself. Look for thestory of our traverse in September’s National Geographic.A RUGGED REALMSHIELDED FROM WARBY PAUL SALOPEKPHOTOGRAPH BY MATTHIEU PALEY``````In 2013 Paul Salopekbegan what he calls“an experiment in slowjournalism”: a walkingjourney of 21,000 milesalong the pathwaysof the humans whofirst explored Earth inthe Stone Age. As hetravels, he’s coveringthe major stories ofour time, from climatechange to cultural sur-vival, by giving voice tothe people who inhabitthem every day. You’llfind periodic updatesin the magazine andcan follow the entirejourney online atoutofedenwalk.org.``````The Out ofEden WalkAFRICA AFGHANISTANASIANORTHAMERICA``````SOUTHAMERICA``````CompletedPlannedrouteNGM MAPS