National Geographic

T MINUS SIX MONTHSA VOLCANIC DREAMI’ve been wanting to docu-ment how people live andwork in extreme environ-ments, because that mayteach us how to adapt toa changing planet. MountIjen in East Java, Indonesia,is an active volcano thatcontains an acidic lake anda sulfur mine. Deep in thecrater, in air heavy withtoxic gases, miners extractchunks of sulfur. They carry150- to 200-pound loads tothe rim and then down themountain to sell to facto-ries, which use sulfur in themanufacture of things likecosmetics and sugar.``````T MINUS THREE DAYSESSENTIALPACKING LISTWe landed in Java anddrove for three days toreach Mount Ijen. Whilepreparing for the trip,I learned that the sulfu-rous gas is unpredictable.Sometimes it’s so thickyou can’t see or breathe.If that happens, I wasadvised, don’t panic—justwait for the wind tomove it along.- Goggles- Water and energy bars- Heavy jacket for night- time temperatures- HeadlampT MINUS ONE HOURREADY FORLAUNCHAt the foot of the volcano,I rented a gas mask. Fromthere we climbed to themountain edge, wheretourists flock after darkto see blue flames from thecombustion of gases. Butif you just take a beautifulpicture of the flames, youmiss the human story. Theminers choose nighttimeto descend into the craterand do their backbreakinglabor because it’s cooler.I wanted to go into themine. At 2 a.m. I followedthem into the crater tospend the night.AS TOLD TO NINA STROCHLIC PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDREA FRAZZETTA‘WHEN YOU’RE IN THE MINE,THE SKY IS COVERED BY GASES.DAY AND NIGHT ARE CONFUSED.YOU FEEL SUSPENDED IN TIME.’—Andrea Frazzettaextract sulfur from a crater spewing blue flamesINTO A SULFUR MINE