A good worker, she was visibly restless to the point that
when the recession came in 2008, her boss encouraged
her to leave and follow her passion.
After getting her beauty and skincare qualifications,
and initially operating out of one rented room, last year
she launched West Room Aesthetics, the go-to destina-
tion for Black women’s skincare needs. Based in west
London, it has a clinic room, treatment room and retail
area. “I wanted a space where Black women instantly
felt at home and didn’t have to question anything that
was on the shelves because I was used to women saying
to me, ‘Is this for me, though?’ ”
Attention to detail is at the core of the clinic’s ethos;
clients are “walked through” a skincare regime, with
products arranged for each step of the routine, with
cleansers at one end of the room right through to prod-
ucts with SPF. The brands she works with have been
meticulously curated. The Fitzpatrick skin scale is a
system that classifies your skin type according to the
amount of pigment and its reaction to sun exposure.One thing that stops Black
women from accessing the
best information, treatments
and products to care for their
skin is the number of myths
and misconceptions about
Black skin that litter the beauty
and skincare world. These
create unnecessary fear
and confusion.‘BLACK PEOPLE CAN’T
GET SKIN CANCER’
Black people can get skin
cancer, including the type
caused by the sun. Albeit at a
lower rate than white people,
but that does not mean you
should be less vigilant about
sun protection. Experts say that
Black people are more likely to
Black skin is usually at the end of the scale at six, and
Ayodele only stocks brands that have done their research
and testing up to the end of the scale, as well as brands
that have carried out clinical trials on Black people.
Her book is similar in its approach: written by a Black
woman for Black women, although she hopes it will
be useful to other demographics — skincare students,
brands and non-Black people with mixed race children
or Black partners.
Ayodele’s aims just begin with the book and she hopes
to release a product line soon too. For now though, her
focus is inclusion that goes beyond what is stocked on the
shelves. “I’d like to see the industry support and incubate
[Black women] more so that we as Black people also own
a piece of the industry, rather than just us asking, ‘Mr
White Man, please can you give us a seat at the table?’
I would like to see us own some tables ourselves.” ■West Room Aesthetics, 77 Fernhead Road, London W9;
020 8964 1961die from skin cancer because
we spot the signs a lot later
than white people, because we
are not used to monitoring our
skin for changes.‘BLACK SKIN DOESN’T
NEED SUNSCREEN’
Yes it does! The sun speeds up
premature ageing and will make
hyperpigmentation worse, so
don’t be a stranger to your
broad spectrum SPF30 UVA/
UVB sunscreen.‘HYDROQUINONE IS
BAD FOR BLACK SKIN
BECAUSE IT BLEACHES
AND LIGHTENS THE SKIN’
Hydroquinone is only bad for
the skin when used incorrectlyand without medical
supervision. It’s actually a
great ingredient for solving
hyperpigmentation concerns,
but it has unfairly got a bad rep
because certain groups use it
carelessly for bleaching and
lightening their skin.‘BLACK DON’T CRACK’
We love to say this, but Black
will crack if you slack. Black skin
is not immune from “cracking”,
ie fine lines and wrinkles; it just
happens at a slower rate than
white skin. Black skin having
more melanin is not an excuse
not to look after it or protect it
from the sun and other types
of environmental damage like
pollution. Apart from linesUnpacking Black skin myths
and wrinkles, discolouration is
also a sign of ageing.‘BLACK SKIN CAN’T HAVE
ADVANCED TREATMENTS
SUCH AS CHEMICAL
PEELS, MICRONEEDLING
OR LASER TREATMENT’
This is incorrect. Black skin
can successfully have all these
treatments. Just ensure your
practitioner is qualified and
experienced. Treatments are
always improving, and some
can be easily modified to suit
Black skin, so don’t be put off.Extracted from Black Skin:
The Definitive Skincare Guide
by Dija Ayodele, published by
HQ on November 25 at £20Left Dija Ayodele. Below One of
Ayodele’s beauty boxes, Skin Heroes
Collection Combination Skin, £345;
westroomaesthetics.comThe Sunday Times Style • 109