The Times Weekend - UK (2021-11-20)

(Antfer) #1

Outside 19


JANE SOMERVILLE; ALAMY

of Beacon Hill, running through groves
of twisty yews.
At the crest of the down we stopped to
take in a 40-mile prospect of downs and
woods, ribbed ploughland and smooth
grazing. By the homeward path rose a
white steeple, raised in 1740 by Paulet
St John to honour the horse he named
Beware Chalk Pit. Seven years earlier
steed and rider had jumped a hedge
while out foxhunting and tumbled into
a chalk quarry 25ft deep. Miraculously,
both escaped unscathed and rode to
triumph in the Hunters Plate on nearby
Worthy Downs the next year. Huzzah!

Y


ou couldn’t find a better
place than Farley Mount
Country Park for children
and dogs to run about
and kick up the leaves on
a cold winter’s day. Bright
pink spindle berries lent
a touch of colour to the pale grey winter
woods. A young wolfhound came up
with a 5ft stick in his jaws, winking his
toffee-coloured eyes sideways at us
as if to say: “Aren’t I the clever boy?”
In a shallow valley north of the woods
we turned along a grassy farm track
between rolling fields of beet and wheat
stubble. In the hazel hedges, crimson
stalks of dogwood sprouted green-white
flowers and deeply creased leaves
turning dark mauve.
Nearer the silos and sheds of
intriguingly named Forest Extra a
starling lay in the grass verge of the lane,
wings outspread. Last night’s rain had
coalesced into evenly spaced droplets
all over the water-resistant feathers,
like raindrops on a newly proofed coat.
A pale path of chalky mud led over
the winter wheat. On the opposite slopes
starlings perched on the backs of fat
sheep that grazed among the vines of
Chalk Vale Vineyard.


The hamlet of Ashley and its castle
mound lay hidden among trees beyond
a stout wall. King John stayed here
often while hunting, a guest of William
Briwere, described by contemporary
chronicler Roger of Wendover as an
“evil adviser” to the king.
In the fields beyond, large old beech
trees, stripped of leaves, raised their
graceful domed heads against the grey
sky. We dropped down to the valley
bottom and the Roman road from
Winchester to Old Sarum, these days
a narrow lane as straight as an arrow.
From here a good track rose up the flank

A good walk Farley Mount


and Beacon Hill, Hampshire


Farley
Mount
Country
Park

Sparsholt

start To Winchester
Monument

Clarendon Way

Roman Road

Ashley

Chalk
Vale

Forest
Extra

Beacon
Hill
P

500 metres

Portsmouth HAMPSHIRE

Bournemouth

Start Hawthorn car park, Pitt Down,
near Sparsholt SO21 2JG approx
(OS ref SU 415292).
Getting there Sparsholt is signed from
B3049 (Winchester-Stockbridge).
Follow “Farley Mount” from here.
Walk (OS Explorer OL32) Facing away
from road, from left corner of car park
follow forest road north. In 250m, at
barrier, follow main roadway to right.
In 300m, left up forest road (417294).
In ½ mile, leave trees (418303); in just
under ¾ mile, left in valley bottom
(418313). In 1 mile, pass Forest Extra
(403319); in ¾ mile, left off road past
gate (390319, arrow) on well-trodden
field path. In just under ¾ mile at
far side of 4th field, up steps through
hedge (384311); left (yellow arrow)
along field path. In 1 mile, descend
to valley track (397301); right to road
(399296); right. In ½ mile, hairpin
back left across field (390297; blue arrow,
then green arrow; “Clarendon Way”/
CW). Follow CW for 1½ miles across
Beacon Hill (detouring right to horse
monument at 403290) to road (408293).
Cross onto path; in 50m, through gate;
fork left on CW at edge of trees to
car park.
Lunch Plough Inn, Sparsholt SO21 2NW
(01962 776353, the.littlepubgroup.co.uk).
Accommodation The Old Vine,
8 Great Minster Street, Winchester
SO23 9HA (01962 854616,
oldvinewinchester.com).
More information Winchester Tourist
Information Centre (01962 840500).
Twitter @somerville_c
Christopher Somerville

In the fields,


large old beech


trees, stripped


of leaves, raised


their graceful


domed heads


against the


grey sky


The homeward path,
near Beacon Hill.
Top right: look out for
starlings along the route.
Above right: the Farley
Mount Monument

How hard is it?


9 miles; easy; farm


tracks and woodland

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