The Sunday Times Magazine - UK (2021-11-21)

(Antfer) #1

54 • The Sunday Times Magazine


LUKE ALBERT FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE. PROPS: RACHEL VERE

The Dish


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E


ven if cooking is a huge part
of your life, there are times
when dialling in a takeaway or
grating a pile of cheese onto bread,
splashing it with Worcestershire
sauce and shoving it under the
grill is as much effort as we can
or should muster.
Then there are those days —
and for me they usually fall
midweek — when you really want
something homemade for dinner,
something good and warming
that bookends the day and fills the
kitchen with delicious smells, but
which doesn’t require giving up
much of your evening or, crucially,
create too much washing up.
That is where the trusty
traybake comes in. I fall back on
some version of a roasting-tin
meal at least once a week, and the
recipes on these pages are an edit
of some of my favourites from the
past year: two meaty, one vegan.
They are all seriously good eating
but the sort of thing that once
piled into warm bowls, rewards
you rather disproportionately
given the effort you’ve put in.
Such is the beauty of bringing
compatible ingredients together
in a baking tray and letting them
get to know one another.

When you crave a comforting meal without the faff,


rustle up a traybake and let the roasting tin work its magic


For simple suppers


first reach for a tin


Rosie Birkett


1


Saucy chicken


thighs with


honey, lemon


and thyme


This recipe is irresistibly simple,
but also special enough to warrant
making for Sunday lunch or a more
memorable dinner. It delivers
crispy chicken, honeyed parsnips
and a rich, creamy sauce in one
effortless tray. You could easily
add mushrooms or a slice or two
of stale bread, which soak up the
sauce to become custardy on
the underside and crispy on top.
Almonds also work well if you
want to add some crunch, and
use those little jarred cornichons
if you’re out of capers.

SERVES
4 people

INGREDIENTS
8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs
4 round shallots, peeled and halved
crossways
8 sprigs of thyme or 1 tsp dried
thyme or oregano
2 tbsp capers
6 cloves of garlic, peeled

400g parsnips, peeled and halved or
quartered, depending on thickness
Zest of ½ lemon, pared and
finely sliced
1 tbsp olive oil

For the cream sauce
200ml double cream
100ml madeira or sherry
2 tbsp runny honey
1 tsp Dijon mustard
Juice of 1 lemon
A big handful of tarragon or
flat-leaf parsley leaves

01 Heat the oven to 200C
(220C non-fan).

02 Add the chicken to a large
roasting tray with the shallots,
thyme, capers, garlic, parsnips and
lemon zest. Season well with salt
and pepper and drizzle over the
olive oil, giving it all a good mix
to coat. Roast for 30 min until the
chicken is starting to look golden.

03 Meanwhile, whisk together the
cream, madeira or sherry, honey,
mustard, lemon juice and tarragon
or parsley with a good pinch of salt.

04 Once the 30 min is up, pour
the sauce over the parsnips and
around but not over the chicken
(we don’t want to scupper that
gorgeous crispy skin), then roast
for a further 15-20 min until the
skin is crispy and the parsnips are
tender and caramelised.

05 Remove from the oven and rest
for 5 min. Serve with orzo, potatoes
or noodles and green beans.

Photographs by Luke Albert
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