Will Lyons
F
or many people the appeal
of wine lies in its sheer range
of flavours. One can be lusciously
sweet, with the taste of apricots
and honey; another tart and fizzy,
carrying the aromas of yeasty
bread; while yet another is as clear
as water and filled with the scent
of summer flowers and fruit. It’s as
if there is a wine for every season.
I was reminded of this when
watching the film The Truffle
Hunters, which follows a group of
old Italian men and their hunting
dogs. It transported me straight to
the woodlands of Piedmont. I couldUnearth savoury classics for
a glowing autumnal spirit
almost smell the damp forest floor
and take in the intoxicating scent
of the truffles the happy hunters
paired with a glass of local barolo.
This savoury vegetal character,
commonly described in France as
sauvage or over here as “farmyard”,
is the archetypal flavour of autumn.
It’s to be found in everything from
mature red burgundy to bottle-
aged châteauneuf-du-pape, from
bordeaux to barbera, from brunello
di montalcino to chianti. These are
perfect wines to pair with seasonal
dishes such as stews, mushroom
and pumpkin risotto or steaming
bowls of pasta laced with truffle.
Don’t think autumn is all about
reds, though. The umami flavours
of mushrooms in particular pair
beautifully with crisp whites as
well as toasty champagne and
mature chardonnay. Here are
some of my favourite matches n
Twitter: @Will_Lyons
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1 2019 Taste the Difference
Zweigelt
Sainsbury’s, £9
Austria
Zweigelt isn’t a grape you come
across often but it can produce juicy,
bracing reds with telltale notes of
pepper and spice. This example,
made by Markus Huber, has bright
notes of cherry and a touch of
fresh mint, almost like a light syrah.
It marries impeccably with the
earthy flavour of mushrooms.2 2020 Broglia Gavi di Gavi
Waitrose, £15.99
Italy
Produced by the Broglia family in
Piedmont from the cortese grape,
this classic gavi di gavi is crisp and
steely, with a savoury, almond-like
nuttiness on the finish. Perhaps
wait until December 1, when the
price drops to £10, and you’ll be
tempted to pair this with the fresh
truffle-laden pasta it cries out for.