T
he island of Sicily has been overrun and conquered by
numerous empires and civilizations. The year 2020
brought a new and deadly conqueror, the coronavirus.
The lockdown was absolute — even church doors were shut
tight. But in 2021, Sicilians brought life and traditions back to
their streets.
Saint’s days, or festas, are important events on the Sicilian
calendar. Last year, for the first time in more than a century,
some towns canceled their festas. The arrival of vaccines this
year seemed to offer hope that the processions would once
again march down the ancient streets. However, a surge in
summer tourism, while helping the local economy, also
boosted the coronavirus infection rate.
Sicily has the lowest vaccination rate in Italy. Nevertheless,
scaled-down celebrations have reappeared in the island’s
streets. In the capital city of Palermo, residents gathered for
the festa honoring the Maria della Mercede (Madonna of
Mercy), which dates to the 16th century. Children were
hoisted aloft to be blessed by the Virgin as a marching band
played in a small piazza fronting the church that bears her
name. Local bishops did not permit the normal procession
because of the pandemic, so local children had their own,
carrying a cardboard re-creation of the Virgin through the
labyrinth of the famous Il Capo district’s narrow streets.
As the fireworks blossomed overhead and the marching
band played on, it was easy to see that Sicilians were
embracing a centuries-old tradition that seems certain to last
for many more to come.Michael Robinson Chavez is a Washington Post staff photographer.From left: A band plays at a celebration honoring Maria della Mercede
(Madonna of Mercy) in Palermo, Italy, in Septembe r. Church volunteers
during a re ligious festival in Porticello. Pre vious pages: Children are
hoisted up for a b lessing by the Madonna in Palermo.
44 NOVEMBER 28, 2021 THE WASHINGTON POST MAGAZINE 45