The Washington Post Magazine - USA (2021-11-28)

(EriveltonMoraes) #1
THE WASHINGTON POST MAGAZINE 73

Take a look at his latest project, a third branch of Immigrant
Food at Planet Word, a museum devoted to language in the
historic Franklin School on 13th Street NW. (Union Market is
home to the second Immigrant Food.) The new restaurant has a
few things in common with its siblings, chiefly a daytime menu of
international sandwiches, salads and bowls and a handsome
wooden map of the world that serves as both interior design and
mission statement. But the third location is the most ambitious
yet, with an evening menu featuring top-shelf cocktails and table

The word on this museum cafe is positive


S


ince he left Baltimore for Washington, Enrique Limardo has
done much to make the nation’s capital a more exciting
place to eat, and at all price points.
His maiden effort in 2017, Chicken + Whiskey on 14th Street
NW, married a self-service chicken joint with a cocktail bar
accessed via a refrigerator door in the back. Next, Seven Reasons,
also on 14th Street, introduced duck tongue chicharron and a chic
jungle look, making such a delicious impression, I named it the
No. 1 r estaurant in my 2019 fall dining guide. Limardo’s third
contribution, the fast-casual Immigrant Food near the White
House, celebrated fusion bowls from around the world while
promoting the work of pro-immigrant organizations. Washington
also has the Venezuelan chef to thank for dreaming up
Imperfecto, the stylish fine-dining lair in the West End, where
servers in suits introduce dishes weaving the Mediterranean with
Latin America.
If José Andrés has a f riendly rival in Washington, it’s Limardo.

The dim sum experience at Immigrant Food
Plus, across from Franklin Square in downtown
Washington, offers “world bites” from a three-
tier bamboo steamer.

PHOTO: LAURA CHASE DE FORMIGNY

TOM SIETSEMADining


IMMIGRANT FOOD PLUS 925 13th St. NW. 202-888-0760. immigrantfood.com. Open: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through
Saturda y, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. Prices: Lunch sandwiches and salads $11 to $15; dinner shareable bites (for two) $14
to $22, shareable plates (for two to three) $21 to $38. Sound check: 75 decibels/Must speak with raised voice.
Accessibility: The (heavy) front door is preceded by a s light slope; ADA-compliant restrooms.

Unrated during the pandemic
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