Manual of Purpose-Made Woodworking Joinery

88 Making doors and doorframes

MAKING AN UPGRADED

EXTERIOR DOOR

Figures 5.13(a)(b)(c)(d)(e): Although there is a wide

range of modern and traditional designs for exterior

timber doors (on view to anyone out walking), I

have designed a half- glazed door with a revamped

traditional panel- type that has an established

reputation for durability and longevity. Essentially,

it has a bead- flush panel and, in my design, it could

also be a bead- and- butt panel (illustrated and

described at Figures 5.8(c) and (d) above). As seen

in the section views below, I have upgraded the door

with a layer of 25mm- thick Celotex rigid insula-

tion board sandwiched between the 9mm- thick

outer panels of exterior- grade plywood. Additionally,

the glazed area above has a 16mm sealed unit with

low- E (low emissive) glass and warm- edge spacer

bars – and weather seals are an integral part of the

doorframe.

Figure 5.12 (a) Elevation of internal, partly clad plywood
or hardboard flush door.

12

3

Figure 5.12 (b) 3D view of parts of the lightweight
framing: 1) Tongued lipping of ex 42 × 20mm finish
(2mm added to width for 1mm cleaning- up on each
door- face); note, the lipping can also be of a 42 ×
10mm finish, without a tongue. 2) Edge- framing stiles
of 34 × 28mm finish with 10 × 10mm grooves; and 3)
Rails of 34 × 28mm finish, stub- tenoned and drilled or
notched – (drilling is preferable).

A

SEALED-UNIT

GLAZING

BEAD-

FLUSH

PANEL

A

B

B

CC

Figure 5.13 (a) Elevation of an upgraded half- glazed

exterior- type door with a revamped traditional panel

below and a 16mm double- glazed sealed unit above.