C
hocolate-box buildings with brimming flower
boxes. An imposing fortress, encircled by
cannons. Soaring city walls, cobbled squares,
horse-and-carriage rides. Where in the world are you?
You’d probably guess France — maybe Switzerland or
Germany. But this is, in fact, North America; Quebec
City, one of the continent’s oldest colonial settlements.
Some 400 years after its founding, it delivers 17th-century
atmosphere so rich it can feel like stepping onto a film set.
Wander the picturesque old town — divided into Upper
and Lower halves, connected by steep stairways and an
old funicular — and your fingers will twitch for a camera.
The Lower, Quartier Petit Champlain, has artisan shops
and muralled squares. The Upper, marked by a sweeping
boardwalk and the landmark Fairmont Le Château
Frontenac hotel, sparkles with Victorian glamour — in
fact, you half-expect a bonneted lady to stroll past.
However, there’s more to Quebec City than its looks.
Nearly half a millennium of history means that when you
scratch beneath the surface, the stories get interesting.
Think churches stuffed with paintings rescued during
the French Revolution; monasteries that hosted Canada’s
first hospital; and ballrooms where Roosevelt and
Churchill planned D-Day.
Then, of course, there’s the culture. In so many ways,
Quebec City is a slice of bygone France. And not just in
the mansard roofs and Gallic signage, but in the white-
tableclothed restaurants unironically dishing up retro
duck à l’orange and crêpes suzette. But for every full-
French moment, there’s a counterpoint. You need only
step into an American-style diner for poutine — cheese
curds, chips and gravy — or nibble fresh maple taffy to
know Paris is more than 3,000 miles away.
Part of the city’s charm is what it offers beyond its
old city walls. Here you’ll find trendy neighbourhoods
punctuated with hip wine bars and breweries, offering
a sense of how real life ticks along inside the tourist
magnet. Then, beyond that, there’s wilderness. A
20-minute drive will take you not just out of the city, but
standing by a crashing waterfall, kayaking along a river
and cycling past fields full of ripening blackcurrants.
And, perhaps, that’s where the European comparisons
draw thin. Beautiful, diverse landscapes minutes from a
cosmopolitan hub? That’s unmistakably Canadian.
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