National Geographic Traveller UK - 01 e 02.2022

PAOL A

BACCHIA

is the author

of Istria, Recipes

and stories from the

hidden heart of Italy,

Slovenia and

Croatia

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At the northern tip of the Adriatic Sea, Istria

is placed like a keystone in the folding hills

and valleys where Italy, Slovenia, Austria and

Croatia meet. Rows of vines and olive trees

grow in fi elds of red earth at the foot of towns

built from pale Istrian stone, and the scent of

pine and salt mingle where the forests greet

the coast.

My father and his family were Italian-

Istrians, part of the large population who

left Istria aft er the Second World War,

when most of the peninsula was ceded to

Yugoslavia. My parents migrated to Australia

in 1950, together with other displaced

Europeans who were off ered free passage in

exchange for work. Once in Australia, they

formed a community of Istriani, gathering

in their newly built homes, by the beach and

at picnics, playing card games, drinking

homemade wine and sharing the food that

connected them to their homeland.

The food I grew up with refl ected the

cultures that for millennia fl ourished side

by side. Istria has Roman ruins, Hapsburg

edifi ces and Venetian lions carved into

the facades of buildings in its west-coast

towns. Istria’s story is my family’s story: my

grandfather, Matteo, was born in Istria when

it was part of Austria, lived in Istria when it

was Italy and left it when it was Yugoslavia.

The town of his birth is now in Croatia.

In Istrian kitchens, Venetian seafood

stews sit alongside hearty, Hungarian-style

goulash; ravioli with ricotta is followed

by Balkan fl ame-grilled meats, and all are

accompanied by the vegetables that grow

in abundance in the region and desserts

that wouldn’t look entirely out of place in a

Viennese coff eeshop.

Istria, Recipes and stories f rom the

hidden heart of Italy, Slovenia and Croatia is

published by Smith Street Books, £26.

MUST-TRY DISHES

PLJUKANCI

This dense and slightly chewy

hand-rolled pasta is spindle-

shaped: fat in the middle and

tapered at either end. Pljukanci

is traditionally served with

braised oxtail or chicken ragu,

but is just as delicious in a buttery

sauce with prawns, mushrooms

or asparagus.

JOTA

When Alpine winds blow down

the west coast of Istria, you’ll fi nd

people warming themselves with

a bowl of jota: a comforting soup

thick with beans and potatoes,

fl avoured with a ham hock or

cured pork sausage, and balanced

with the acidity of sauerkraut.

PAL ACI NKE

In Istrian homes, you’ll fi nd these

thin crepes spread with jam or

lemon juice and sprinkled with

sugar. But on restaurant dessert

menus, they’re fi lled with cherries

or blackberries, then rolled up or

folded and served warm, doused

in a fruit reduction and topped

with ice cream.

Author Paola Bacchia explores the rich fl avours

and traditions of the Croatian region

ISTRIA

A TASTE OF

THE INGREDIENT

Istrian truffles can

be found around

the hilltop town of

Motovun and are

as good as those in

Italy or France. Serve

shaved on pasta,

gnocchi or eggs.

LEFT:

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Jan/Feb 2022 37

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