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LOCHLOMOND
ON THE TRAIL
It’s 20 years since Loch Lomond &
The Trossachs was designated a
national park and a cycle around the
loch’s banks is the perfect way to find
out why. Words: Richard Franks(^1) INCHCAILLOCH
Start your journey at Balmaha
Boatyard for an island hop.
Accessible year-round by a
small wooden passenger boat,
Inchcailloch is part of Loch
Lomond National Nature
Reserve, and its ancient oak
woodland is home to ospreys,
white fallow deer and, in winter,
migrating Greenland white-
fronted geese. Allow a couple
of hours to explore the island
with its abandoned farm, ruined
church and graveyard.
(^2) BALLOCH CASTLE
COUNTRY PARK
Back on the mainland, head
towards Balloch for Loch
Lomond’s only country park. In
the past, 80,000 music-lovers
have packed out the park for
concerts by bands such as Oasis
and REM, but today it’s the more
peaceful attractions that tempt
visitors. Pack a wetsuit and swim
in the bracing waters or explore
the gothic castle and gardens
before joining the West Loch
Lomond cycle path.
(^5) FALL S OF FALLOCH
Another eight-mile cycle north
swings by Ben Vorlich at the
northern tip of Loch Lomond,
before taking in a gentle ascent
towards the Falls of Falloch.
This mammoth waterfall and
rockpool is best viewed from the
Woven Sound installation on
the left-hand side. A cage-like
tunnel leads towards a viewing
platform, where a quote from
19th-century writer Dorothy
Wordsworth is etched into the
weathered steel.
(^3) LUSS VILLAGE
An eight-mile cycle brings you to
the conservation village of Luss,
famous for its stone cottages,
woodland-backed beach and
watersports opportunities. If
you fancy swapping the bike for
a boat, park up at the cycle rack,
rent a kayak and paddle west
for The Narrows: a sheltered,
sun-trapped stretch of water that
winds its way between a set of
wooded isles. Head back to land
and stay overnight in Luss.
(^6) BEN MORE
Following a 30-minute descent
via Crianlarich, the route finishes
by Ben More, the national park’s
highest mountain at 3,852ft. This
Munro offers a challenging climb
and is often tackled along with
its neighbour, Stob Binnein, as
part of a four-to-five-hour round
trip. Portnellan self-catering
accommodation is near the start
point, and there are bike racks
if you decide to stay overnight.
portnellan.com
(^4) AN CEANN MÒR
In the morning, cycle along
the water’s edge towards An
Ceann Mòr, following signs for
Lodge on the Loch. One of four
viewpoints commissioned by the
national park, this pyramid-like
vantage point offers exemplary
views towards Ben Lomond
and the Arrochar Alps behind,
with a telescope atop its 31 steps
that’s ideal for spotting wildlife.
Afterwards, fuel up on Tunnock’s
tea cakes at Ceann Mor Cafe
before setting off again.
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Jan/Feb 2022 39
SMART TRAVELLER