Although the century began with a high influence of the exuberant tastes
of the Italians and Spanish fashion evident from the magnificent opera houses
and churches built in this period, the French fashion style fully emerged
around the middle of the century.
Louis XIV loved fashion and luxury living and consequently supported the
fashion industry through government reforms that provided incentives and
financial aid to designers, artisans and craftsmen. As far back as 1665, he
introduced policies to increase export of French fashion goods and reduce
imports of foreign fashion goods. France therefore emerged as the biggest
supplier of luxury fashion goods in the world. Louis XIV also ensured that
France had a well-established textile industry, which generated wealth and
influenced the culture of the nation and beyond.
In addition, French magazines and newspapers distributed all over Europe
increased the influence of France in fashion. Paris’ Rue Saint Honoré became
established as the treasure land for renowned tailors such as Monsieur
Regnault and Monsieur Gautier; similar to London’s Savile Row of the 1960s
and Jermyn Street of today. Talented women couturiers like Madame
Villeneuve and Madame Charpentier also emerged and competed with the
male tailors. Although the role of women in the general society remained
minimal, the emergence of ‘Les salons reunions des grands maison privees’
(The meeting rooms of the grand private residences) increased the influence
of women in lifestyle. Noblemen of the society were known to make secret
visits for advice and opinion exchanges.
As lifestyle and education became linked with fashion and sophistication
in France, the country became a reference point for stylishness. This gave
way to the birth of the French ‘Art e Vivre’ and ‘Savoir Faire’, especially with
inventions like the use of the fork and knife and the formal dance.
Consequently, throughout Europe, high society either spoke French or had a
French undertone. However, several religious frictions in Europe, mainly
between the Protestant north and the Catholic south and the 30-year war
between 1618 and 1648 stunted the growth of the French fashion influence
for a short time.
The societal structure of the Baroque period also gave way to the detach-
ment of clothing from the social class although this was a gradual process that
would take centuries to manifest. Members of the middle social class began
dressing similarly to the upper class as a result of increased apparel produc-
tion no longer restricted to made-to-measure. Clothes also lost their stiffness
and more emphasis was placed on comfort, movement and fluidity. The unex-
pected social liberty also materialized in the design of women’s clothes
through the emergence of the cleavage and clothes cut close to the body. It
also brought about the introduction of the nightgown around 1670 and the
skirt in 1680.
Simple, elegant and highly expensive jewellery such as diamonds and
pearls were in high demand especially with Paris as a prominent supplier.22
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