Pearls were heavily used by women all over the body to advertise their
sophisticated tastes and status. The handbag also emerged as an important
accessory preceded by the perfume bag. Perfumes and fragrance were also
prominent in this period, especially for men who used it to conceal their bad
odour as a result of lack of bathing as they paid less attention to personal
grooming.
The eighteenth century, France and luxury fashion
The eighteenth century was a century of contrasts in wealth and status. The
prominence of France as the centre of style, civilization, education, intellect,
arts and culture continued to rise during this century. By the end of Louis
XIV’s reign in 1715, the supremacy of France in fashion and lifestyle was
unarguable. The rise of France led to the fading of Italy’s influence in fash-
ion especially as Italian fashion became less unified and more regional.
Louis XIV established himself as the arbiter of fashion and also propelled
the Palace of Versailles, where he lived, as a centre that dictated fashion and
lifestyle all over Europe and beyond. The Versailles courts were known for
their splendour, opulence and luxury tastes shown through the dress styles
and fabrics made of very expensive material. Everyone who wanted to be
recognized followed and adopted the style that emanated from Versailles.
Versailles Palace fashion led to haute mode high-society fashion, which
dictated the tastes of society. Dressing emerged as one of the most sensitive
aspects of society and fashion became a unifying factor and a source of
respect.
Although national styles already existed in this century, the authority of
French fashion in defining global tastes was so high that the dress style
adopted all over Europe, including the royal courts, was the French style.
From Germany to Spain, Portugal, Scandinavia and even Russia, there was a
French undertone in fashion, lifestyle and appearance. The influence of the
French lifestyle on Germany was so high that under the rule of King
Frederick I, a total French taste was mandated in everything from furniture to
dressing. Anyone who wanted to be seen as cultivated, well-educated and
well-groomed adopted the French taste and style. There was a universal
acceptance that only France possessed the secrets of sophistication and
charm. Even England, which had a long history of political and colonial
rivalry with France and which had a preference for simple clothing, acknowl-
edged the elegance and sophistication of French fashion.
By 1760, French standards of taste, fashion and life known as the art de
vivrehad been universally adopted, characterized by wit, elegance, style,
civilized manners and relationships and cultivated tastes in politics, society
and intellect. The French language also became the European lingua franca
of the educated elite, replacing Latin. The French courts, which were main
chapter 2 23the history of luxury fashion branding