well as growing levels of literacy. Increased opportunities in different sectors,
notably in New York, also contributed to American fashion progress.
Although most of the fashion products retailed in New York at this time were
imported from France and the rest of Europe, American fashion consumers
developed sophisticated tastes from extensive travels and cultural influence.
The introduction of fashion magazines such as Godey’s Lady’s Book in 1837
also significantly influenced the fashion development of America.
Additional influencing factors of fashion growth include the expansion of
the American middle class and their increased wealth. Also, the invention of
the sewing machine and the creation of paper dress patterns established a
means of copying the styles of Parisian and London women. In addition,
other machines that could create patterns, covered buttons and embroidery
were invented and adopted by dressmakers, contributing to the rise of the
ready-to-wear market. Further progress was made in mass production tech-
niques making ready-to-wear goods widely adopted in New York between
the 1860s and 1890s. The fashion public also embraced ready-to-wear fash-
ion as a result of the simplicity of the American lifestyle, which was differ-
ent from the prevalent European aristocratic opulence. However, European
imports remained perceived as more superior and sought after throughout the
century.
All through the nineteenth century, the American fashion public, however,
continued to favour the French style. As a result, wealthy members of society
imported their fashion goods from France while the rest of the population
relied on New York to produce ‘copies’ of the French style. This factor also
contributed to the rise of New York as the centre of business and fashion for
those who could not travel to Paris. By the middle of the nineteenth century,
New York stores like A.T. Stewart, founded around 1875, offered custom-
made clothes and fitted ready-to-wear replicas of French fashion.
Several fashion retail innovations were also developed in America during
the nineteenth century. Notable among these are the concept of ‘Opening
Days’, which were special days when the designs of the next fashion season
were shown. This can be likened to today’s pre-collection shows. Another
retail innovation of this period was the introduction of the decorative window
display at retail stores, which remains a prevalent aspect of luxury fashion
retailing.
The American fashion advancement of the nineteenth century also
extended to the emergence of other luxury fashion departmental stores in
New York, that continue to exist today. Notable among them are Lord &
Taylor, which began in 1852; R.H. Macy, currently known as Macy’s, which
started in 1878; and Brooks Brothers and Hearn. The fashion retail industry
and competitive levels in New York grew rapidly during this century. The
concept of retail ‘cathedrals’ also materialized during this period with the
introduction of A.T. Stewart’s elaborately decorated $3 million New York
store in 1862, which occupied five storeys and two basements. The store also
chapter 2 27the history of luxury fashion branding