Coty Inc. Elizabeth Arden opened a decade later in America in 1910. They
both pioneered the modern make-up and cosmetics industry. One year later,
in 1911, Paul Poiret launched the first branded perfume, Rosine, which
marked the birth of the luxury fragrance sector. Other designers, like Chanel,
followed with the launching of Chanel No. 5 perfume in 1922 and the ‘La
Maison Worth’ branded perfume in 1925. Jean Patou also introduced his
branded fragrance in this period and extended the fragrance experience by
establishing the innovative presentation of scents like cocktails to be mixed
and tested like drinks.
The First World War, however, dominated the 1910s and influenced soci-
ety’s attitudes towards luxury and fashion. By the end of the war, the tastes of
women in fashion had changed dramatically as a result of the increased
responsibilities and hardship they underwent during the war. Although
women continued to desire luxury fashion goods, they sought simplicity
rather than the pre-war extravagance. Coco Chanel was one of the few
designers who understood this significant consumer change and responded by
designing highly sought-after clothes including the classic black dress. The
post-war era also ushered in Popular Youth Culture to replace the sorrow of
the war years. This was the forerunner period of the fashion revival that
would take place shortly in the 1960s through pop culture.
After the war, the cinema became the most established entertainment
medium and gradually personalities from the world of film replaced aristo-
crats as fashion icons and influencers. The popularity of Hollywood film stars
like Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich and their fashion style greatly influ-
enced the development of fashion in the 1920s and 1930s. In Paris, Josephine
Baker also became a fashion icon and the most influential and highest paid
entertainer in Europe.
Coco Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin and Madeleine Vionnet rose to high promi-
nence during this era. On the other hand, the fashion businesses of Charles
Worth and Paul Poiret slowly fizzled out, ushering in a new era of designers
who showed a better understanding of the fashion environment.
At the same time, in Italy, fashion was re-emerging as a prominent social
feature and created a favourable environment for the launch of Prada by
Mario Prada in 1913 and Gucci in 1921 by Guccio Gucci. In America,
however, fashion also developed within retailing and distribution through
departmental stores rather than Parisian style boutiques. This evolution made
fashion more visible and accessible to the growing American middle class.
The concept would later pave the way for the successful retailing of ready-to-
wear fashion which began in New York.
During the early twentieth century, society’s wealthy also dominated
and influenced luxury fashion in a similar manner to the royalties of the
previous eras. The strict social class system that characterized societal
structure provided the major fashion designers with a clientele comprising
royal family members in Europe and the world’s wealthy. The products
chapter 2 29the history of luxury fashion branding