of the world interpreted this look through the wide adoption of denim and
jeans trousers. German designer Karl Lagerfeld also launched his fashion
house in 1984, around the concept of a brave anti-status style and in line with
the fashion society’s demand for unfussiness.
The 1980s was also the decade that saw a major change in the global
perception of beauty, with the rising status of highly paid black models like
Iman, Naomi Campbell and Beverley Johnson. The ascent of fashion models
also led the way to the advent of supermodels as celebrities. The promotion of
supermodels was pioneered by Gianni Versace, who also enhanced the use of
colours and prints in fashion design through his Miami Beach inspired collec-
tions. The stimulation of fashion through multiple sources also extended to
ethnic influences from Africa, India, China and the Mexican peasant looks. At
the same time, Britain’s Princess Diana injected a much needed fresh style
into the British fashion scene. The impacts of these influences were felt on a
global level, with the increase in international travel and communications.
The 1980s was also the decade of Punk Culture and a radical fashion revo-
lution, pioneered by designer Zandra Rhodes. It featured a rebellious attitude
towards fashion that was prevalent throughout the decade. This culture was
also propelled by musicians like Madonna and music groups and rock bands
like the Sex Pistols.
The decade’s revolutions also encouraged the association of fashion with
modern art. In 1983, Yves Saint Laurent became the first living designer to
have his clothes presented in the Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art in
New York, to honour his 20 years of fashion contribution. Exhibitions featur-
ing other talented designers have also been held in several museums in differ-
ent cities.
Several major changes in luxury fashion management also took place in
the 1980s. They include multiple mergers, acquisitions and alliances among
companies, propelled by global business sophistication. These processes
revealed the importance of the concept of branding as an intangible asset for
companies. It also led several luxury brands to take steps to strengthen their
brand assets. Examples of these steps include the appointment of Karl
Lagerfeld (who was at Chloé for 20 years) by Chanel in 1983, to revive the
iconic French brand.
However, the most notable fashion business phenomenon of the 1980s was
the assumption of Bernard Arnault as the President of LVMH (Louis Vuitton
Möet Hennessey) in 1989. Arnault would later turn LVMH into the world’s
largest luxury goods conglomerate and launch a new era of strategic manage-
ment in the modern luxury fashion sector. His later assemblage of a portfolio
of luxury brands would also spark attempts at consolidations in the luxury
goods sector, leading to the creation of rival luxury conglomerates such as
PPR (Pinault, Printemps, Redoute), which owns the Gucci Group;
Richemont, which owns Cartier and Chloé among others; and the Prada
Group, which owns Prada and Miu Miu among others.
chapter 2 33the history of luxury fashion branding