to other parts of the world. She was also one of the most famous clients of
Italian brand, Gucci. The adoration of her style by the American public was
the beginning of celebrity fashion influence in America and the rebirth of this
trend in the European modern fashion environment.
In addition to Jackie Kennedy, who projected American fashion to the
world, the 1960s also witnessed the emergence of two iconic designers, Ralph
Lauren and Calvin Klein, who would eventually make American fashion
global. The factors that contributed to their immediate success were the estab-
lishment of a standard American fashion style by Jackie Kennedy and also the
lack of well-known American designers. Ralph Lauren, who launched his
business in 1967, adopted a reserved English country style with American
non-traditional undertones while Calvin Klein who started in 1968 projected
the casual look through experimenting with sportswear and coat dresses.
By the 1970s, both designers had become highly successful experts in
ready-to-wear fashion. In 1974, Ralph Lauren designed the wardrobe of the
cast of the film ‘The Great Gatsby’, and stamped a definite place for himself
in American fashion history. Calvin Klein’s success was boosted by the care-
free attitude of the consumer public and the growing independence of women.
At the same time, fashion magazines like Vogue and Vanity Fair, which had
become reference points, promoted their designs and contributed immensely
to their fame. The success of Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein encouraged
other designers like Diane von Fürstenberg and Perry Ellis to launch their
fashion businesses in the 1970s.
By the 1980s, the American fashion scene was competing on a par with
several aspects of European fashion. However the advent of globalization and
the increase in international travel, digital media and intercultural influences
had an impact on American consumer society. The high cultural awareness
acquired by several Americans led to a desire for overstated fashion especially
from Europe. As a result, the demand for luxury goods from European brands
like Gucci, Giorgio Armani and Chanel increased. The t-shirt, denim and
sportswear that highlighted the 1970s in American fashion were replaced by a
modern chic and trendy style. American women also became more health and
fitness conscious and used luxury fashion as a platform to display their looks.
This environment contributed to the swift success of designers like Donna
Karan who launched her fashion business in 1984, and Isaac Mizrahi in 1987.
The American taste for flamboyant luxury fashion in the 1980s also led to a
significant rise in the demand for Italian luxury fashion accessories and
apparel. This factor amplified the affinity of American consumers with Italian
luxury designers like Giorgio Armani, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana, still
prevalent today. The love of Italian fashion by Americans would also later
contribute to the success of Italian brands like Tod’s, Hogan and Diesel.
The American luxury consumer market continued to mature into the 1990s.
American fashion consumers adopted a more global outlook as a result of
digital media, information technology, globalization and fashion magazines.
chapter 2 43the history of luxury fashion branding