He eventually got his first real job in the textile trade in 1847, two years
after arriving in Paris. It was at the prestigious textile merchants, Maison
Gagelin on Rue Richelieu in the current first district of Paris. He worked at
Gagelin for a total of 11 years from late 1847 to 1858, doing a similar job as
he had at Lewis & Allenby in London but in a more sophisticated environ-
ment and in a foreign language.
Charles Worth witnessed several changes in the French fashion style as
the society evolved. At the beginning of his stay in Paris, French fashion was
at the height of its majestic glory and influence, but became austere through
the political and economic upheavals such as the ousting of King Louis
Philippe, the death of the French monarchy, the new Republic and the
Napoleonic Empire. Also, the French revolution of 1848 brought a decline
in the flamboyance of women’s clothes and a general demure in French fash-
ion. Through all this mayhem, Worth often wondered if he was in the right
place.
The eye-opener
As the political crisis gave way to a more stable environment, a positive fash-
ion and social attitude emerged in Paris. The construction of eminent build-
ings such as the Opera together with state visits and official receptions that
followed their openings, created an opportunity for luxury to flourish. The
opulence that accompanied these grand ceremonies aroused a taste for luxury
fashion in the upper social class, which greatly benefited designers, jewellers,
dressmakers and textile traders.
Worth was awestruck by the magnificent events in the French world of
royalty and aristocracy. His first direct involvement with this world of
opulence was when Gagelin, the company he worked for, was asked to supply
the materials for Empress Eugenie’s trousseau during her wedding to
Napoleon III in January 1853. This came through their connection with dress-
makers because although Gagelin was a textile supplier, they were constantly
consulted by dressmakers on the suitability of specific materials for certain
styles. The association of Gagelin with the wedding of Napoleon and
Empress Eugenie gained Gagelin immense publicity in fashion magazines
and fashion society, leading to increased sales. This was Worth’s first lesson
of the important role of aristocratic and celebrity connection to the success of
a fashion business. Empress Eugenie, who was known for her style and
charm, would later play a key role in Worth’s success.
Paris had at this time gained great influence and attracted global attention
as the brightest city in Europe. The nouveaux richessuch as bankers and
industrialists contributed to the social expansion of the city. The world looked
to Paris as a source of fashion, culture and the art de vivreand the ever-obser-
vant Worth spotted an opportunity in the newly wealthy Parisian society. He
saw the changing mannerisms and attitudes of the wealthy towards fashion
chapter 2 51the history of luxury fashion branding