La Maison Worth (1871–1952)
Charles Worth reopened his couture shop as ‘La Maison Worth’ in 1871, but
since most of his prestigious clients had been exiled during the war he found
himself starting afresh. He diversified into theatre costume while continuing
to design women’s dresses. During this period he also mastered the art of self-
promotion and incorporated art in his design and image, which set him apart
from rising competition. Worth critically studied the fashion society to inno-
vate fashion styles and anticipate changes in women’s tastes. This was one of
his most important business tools and contributed to the success of La Maison
Worth.
As the political climate stabilized towards the end of the nineteenth
century, Worth’s business grew once more. He regained his authority in fash-
ion and ultimately became a fashion entrepreneur and somewhat the fashion
world’s ruler. He was the first couturier to set seasonal trends and impose his
tastes on his customers. The fashion society revered him and the rich and
famous sought his attention. At the height of his fame, La Maison Worth was
the most prestigious couture house for design and apprenticeship training.
Charles Frederick Worth died of pneumonia on 10 March 1895 aged 70.
The news of his death reverberated in the fashion world amid great homage
for his work. After his death, his wife Marie-Augustine and sons Gaston and
Jean-Philippe, who were already working at La Maison Worth, continued to
run the business. Gaston managed the finances while Jean-Philippe was in
charge of design and production. Although they applied the skills and compe-
tences they learnt from their father, Charles Worth, La Maison Worth was
never the same.
La Maison Worth flourished well into the 1920s but the couture house had
to deal with rife competition from rising couturiers like Jeane Lanvin who
opened her design house in 1890 and Paul Poiret, who came along in 1903.
Also Coco Chanel emerged in 1910 and Madeleine Vionnet in 1912. These
designers understood their consumers and the fashion requirements of the
changing society, as much as Charles Worth did during his lifetime. They
continually innovated to meet customer needs while La Maison Worth
remained inflexible and restrictive. As a result, the popularity of the competi-
tors grew and loyalty to Worth’s house diminished. In a bid to promote their
design house, which had also become a fashion brand, Jean-Philippe Worth
wrote a biography of his father in 1928. The book was a success and Worth’s
name soared once again in fashion circles. The glory was, however, short-
lived as this venture wasn’t backed by concrete offerings of desirable cloth-
ing. La Maison Worth continued designing for the woman of the previous
century, while its competitors had moved forward with current social needs.
Finally, in 1953, after several years of business depreciation, La Maison
Worth was taken over by the House of Paquin.
chapter 2 55the history of luxury fashion branding