Food and Wine Pairing : A Sensory Experience

170 Chapter 8 Fattiness, Cooking Method, Protein, and Body

Table 8.1 Ascending Levels of Body in Proteins and Cooking Methods

Protein

Moist Cooking

Method

Anticipated

Body Levels Protein

Dry Cooking

Method

Anticipated

Body Levels

White fish Poached, steamed Very light Very light

Chicken Poached, steamed Light White fish Grilled Light

Veal Stewed, braised Light to

moderate

Chicken Grilled, pan-seared Light to

moderate

Game birds Braised Moderate Veal Pan-fried, grilled, fried Moderate

Pork Stewed, braised Moderate to full Game birds Roasted Moderate to full

Beef Stewed Full Pork Roasted, grilled Full

Lamb Stewed, braised Robust Beef Roasted, grilled Robust

Venison, elk Stewed, braised Powerful Lamb Roasted, grilled Powerful

Very powerful Venison, elk Grilled, blackened Very powerful

such as smoothness, richness, and moistness. The use of milk and cream as references for

wine body in the previous chapter provide a good example of how levels of fat affect the

tactile sensation experienced in the mouth.

Generally, a richer, fatter dish will require a richer, more full-bodied wine to comple-

ment it. Wine elements can be used to cut through the food fattiness levels. A classic match

is lamb or beef with young Cabernet Sauvignon; the fat in the meat has a natural affinity

for the higher tannins present in the wine, mellowing them.

While an in-depth discussion of cheeses is provided in Chapter 12, it is important to

note that fattiness levels vary substantially due to cheese type. Fresh cheeses (ricotta or fresh

goat cheeses) and aged hard cheeses (Parmigiano Reggiano, Asiago) have a much lower fat

content than high-fat cheeses such as Brie and Brillat-Savarin. Lower-fat cheeses generally

match better with light wines, and fattier cheeses are a better match with stronger wines.

High acidity in wine can also be effective in cutting the fat in foods with higher fat

content. As discussed in Chapter 5, acidity in wine generally works best with vegetable-based

fats rather than animal-based ones. For the creamy sauces commonly served with fish, an

unoaked Chardonnay is preferred to an oaky Chardonnay. The unoaked version will retain

a higher level of acidity, and the closer body match will pair better with this dairy-based

sauce.

Matching acidity in wine with food fattiness is an example of an exception to the rule

of similar body styles in food and wine. When matched with fatty foods, white wines need

to be crisp and intensely flavored, but when paired with meaty items, white wines should

have an element of sweetness to them (such as German Spa ̈tlese or Auslese).

COOKING METHOD AND

PROTEIN INTERACTIONS

While an important texture element is the level of fat present in the protein portion

of the finished dish, the cooking method also has significant effects on the texture of prepared

food items. For example, poaching or steaming maintains a light texture, while frying or

grilling provides additional texture. Table 8.1 provides examples of proteins and cooking

methods in ascending order based on the level of body they provide to finished dishes. The

cooking method used and the level of fat in the protein interact to modify the overall body

of the protein in its finished form.

Using the ascending levels of cooking method styles in Table 8.1 will assist in ranking

food items based on cooking method, protein, and final texture. Body can range from very