172 Chapter 8 Fattiness, Cooking Method, Protein, and Body
INTERACTION OF WINE AND FOOD TEXTURES
Rule #5: Wine tannin levels should be equal to animal-based food fattiness levels.
Rule #6: Wine acidity levels should be equal to vegetable-based food fattiness levels.
Rule #7: Wine overall body should be equal to food overall body.
In a recent study, a trained panel provided support for the theory that wine tannin
levels and food fattiness have a strong relationship with regard to the level of match when
pairing wine with food. Panel members associated a higher level of match when tannin and
food fattiness level were relatively equal.^2 The tannin-fattiness relationship works better
when the fat is animal-based. The greater mouth-coating character of cream, natural fat in
meats, and some cheeses mellows the harshness in tannin, while the tannin cuts through the
fat. Vegetable fats and oils seem to pair better with the natural acidity in wine and can stand
up to a wine with moderate to high acidity.
As previously noted, oak and alcohol are also important characteristics for determining
overall body in wine. For instance, a big and oaky California Chardonnay could be a perfect
match with grilled salmon because the riper grapes produce higher alcohol and a more
powerful body in this style of Chardonnay. The more robust cooking method (grilling) and
more powerful character of salmon creates a bigger, bolder, meaty taste that begs for a more
substantial wine (in this case, a Pinot Noir or even Merlot might also be appropriate). Add
a compound butter to finish the salmon (herb butter, for example) and you could create an
additional match with the buttery character of the Chardonnay (assuming it has undergone
malolactic fermentation); these aspects will be discussed further in the upcoming discussions
on flavor.SUMMARY
Tannin, oak, alcohol level, and body impact the per-
ception of wine texture. Fattiness, protein type, cooking
method, and body impact the perception of food texture.
Matching these wine and food elements moves the level
of match from refreshment to neutral or good. Once the
wine and food components and texture elements have
been properly matched, we can generally be assured that
we will achieve a pleasant gastronomic sensation when the
items are tasted together. The flavor elements will then
provide the crowning touches for the potentially good and
synergistic wine and food matches.DISCUSSION QUESTIONS
- What are the texture elements in food?
- How is food texture traditionally defined?
- What wine elements interact with food fattiness and
body?
- What impact do cooking method and protein type
have on the texture sensation in finished food dishes?