Food and Wine Pairing : A Sensory Experience

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24 Chapter 2 Taste Basics and the Basics of Wine Evaluation


!Consistency. The consistency in wine refers to how fluid or viscous a wine is; normal
viscosity varies by type of wine. The consistency is generally assessed by looking at the ‘‘legs’’
or ‘‘tears’’ that form on the inside of the glass. Tears are droplets that form on the inside of
the glass when the wine is swirled, then run down back into the wine.
Sometimes tears are taken as a sign of quality, but it is generally agreed that tears are
a sign of high alcohol. While tears are primarily formed due to the relative evaporation rates
of water and alcohol, some experts suggest they may be impacted not only by the alcohol
level but also by residual sugar, glycerin, pectin, and other elements responsible for aroma.^4
As an example, the higher residual sugar, glycerin, and alcohol found in Sauternes or ice
wine will result in more substantial tears than seen with Sauvignon Blanc or Se ́millon. Dry,
light white wines are normally lower in alcohol and will by definition have less prominent
tears than higher-alcohol red or white wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay.

!Effervescence. The next step is to inspect the wine for carbonation. Generally, this
examination is needed only for champagne and other sparkling wines. Some wines have a
slight carbonation that may or may not be intentional. Examples of moderately carbonated
wines include Fendant (a refreshing white wine common to Switzerland) and Moscato (a
sweet and fruity white wine from the Piedmonte region of Italy).
Three characteristics of carbonation are important for determining quality. First is an
inspection of bubble size. Bubbles can range in size from rough or large down to fine. Fine
bubbles are an indication of a higher-quality fermentation and carbonation process. Second,
the wine should be inspected to determine if the number of bubbles is appropriate for the
type of carbonated wine; the quantity can be ranked from insufficient to numerous. Finally,
the persistence of the bubbles, from short-lived to long-persistent, provides an indication of
quality. Certainly if you are paying for a good bottle of sparking wine or champagne, you
want one in which the bubbles have a long persistency.

The Smell of Wine: Olfactory Examination Much of what is perceived
as taste or flavor stems from our ability to smell. While humans have a substantial ability to
smell, we also have the ability to tune out smells that are constantly present, so that we’re
not overwhelmed by all of the odors in the environment. As a result, over time we may
become unable to identify some smells without a visual cue (such as the presence of the food
generating the smell). This tendency can make it difficult for some people to identify specific
smells in wine.

!Nosing Steps. To maximize your ability to identify aromas and bouquet in wine,
you need to follow a simple process. First, fill the glass one-third full. This will allow you
to properly swirl the wine and fully release aromas. Next, swirl the glass gently in a circular
motion to release the aromatic compounds. Tilt the glass toward you and place your nose
inside the bowl. Take one deep sniff, or three or four short sniffs, then remove your nose
from the glass to consider the aroma. This is what is considered the ‘‘first nose’’ of the wine
and is your first impression of the aroma. After swirling the wine a second time and allowing
the aromas to open up more fully, you will follow the same smelling procedure. Did you
notice a change in the aroma in this ‘‘second nose’’ of the wine compared to the first? Many
times the aroma will be quite different the second time after the wine has had more time to
breathe and be exposed to the air.
The aroma of a wine is often the subject of elaborate descriptions of wine that many
times are included in the winemaker’s notes on the bottle label or espoused by many wine
enthusiasts—but can come across to many of us as pompous. The aroma wheel developed
by Ann C. Noble can be very useful in determining categories of flavors and specific de-
scriptions for each. For more information on the aroma wheel and to purchase plastic-
laminated copies, you can go to Ann C. Noble’s Web site at http://www.winearomawheel.com.
Other flavor considerations are the aroma’s intensity, quality, and persistency. Intensity
of aroma can range from weak to very aromatic. Quality of aroma can be described using
six descriptors (which are not ranked):elegant, ordinary, agreeable, disagreeable, complex,and
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