56 Chapter 3 Gastronomic Identity
concept is intertwined with history and culture. (Further implications of terroir are discussed
later, in the history section.)
AVAs are constantly evolving, and approval is based on an explanation of why and how
the region is a separate and identifiable growing area, based on history, climate, soil, water,
and so on. In contrast to appellations developed in European traditions (which regulate
varietals and viticulture methods as well as geographic boundaries), American growers can
plant any grape varietals of their choice, with harvests as large as the vines will sustain or as
small as their quality concerns command. From a wine and food pairing perspective, this
freedom limits the usefulness of U.S. appellations as guides to wine characteristics without
additional knowledge about the grower, producer, and location. The French, German, Ital-
ian, and Spanish systems provide greater confidence in using appellations as a guide to wine
quality and characteristics. A limitation in this is that vintage plays a much larger role in
these Old World locations because of greater reliance on the weather (water, sun, wind) and
less on planned factors (such as irrigation).CULTURE
Cultural studies of food by sociologists and anthropologists have become much more
common over the past century. Researchers have described food habits as a sort of customary
behavior that underpins the rituals of a stable society. These authors suggest that norms in
eating patterns both reflect broader structures of the society and indicate that ‘‘taste is cul-
turally shaped and socially controlled.’’^17 In relation to the concept of gastronomic identity,
it can be surmised that food and wine habits derive from a variety of cultural norms and
events over time. These include the history of the region, the food systems employed, the
amount and location of trade, traditions, beliefs, and capabilities development. Capabilities
development refers to learned abilities in a location such as farming techniques, wine making
techniques, innovative behaviors and so on. The following sections discuss these factors in
relation to their impact on wine.HISTORY AND ETHNIC DIVERSITY
The history of wine and food in any region has developed over time with many twists
and turns.^18 Historical events and governmental policies have a substantial impact on wine
and food products. Taxation structures, inheritance customs, and land tenure systems all
affect how much food or wine grapes a farmer might keep for consumption or to sell at the
market and how much would be diverted to the ruling body.^19 In Italy, grapes are grown
virtually everywhere to produce wine. This creates possible problems for the government in
terms of proper taxation of the value of the grapes, the wines produced, and the distillation
of grappa (a beverage made from the must of grapes left after the pressing process). The
Italian government estimates the amount of grapes grown based on the acreage of vineyards
and keeps track of the amount of wine produced and the weight of the grapes after pressing
to determine more exact figures.
The history of wine grape growing and winemaking in North America explains much
of practices used throughout its industry. Canada’s wine history dates back more than four
hundred years, with much of the early traditions of wine culture brought by immigrants
from Germany and Italy; these later became the basis for early commercial wine production.
In 1525, the governor of Mexico (Hernando Corte ́s) ordered the planting of grapes. Fearing
the colony would become self-sufficient in producing its own wine, the king of Spain out-
lawed further new plantings in Mexico in 1595. This moratorium was enforced for 150 years,
effectively eliminating the growth of commercial wine production in Mexico. The Franciscan