124 THE CHEMISTBY OF ESSENTIAL OILS
" Although everything was arranged for the next day with our
Chinese guides, we had to face considerable difficulties. During the
evening we were informed that a certain ' Mr. Wong' (who never ap-
peared in person) had arrived from the interior, and reported that a
visit to the cassia plantations would be of no use, and that it would not
be possible to inspect any distillery, because some children had been
instructed by thieves to steal the leaves from the cassia trees, and that
in consequence a brisk contest between the owners and the thieves was
in progress. Besides, it was claimed that only one distillery existed, at
a distance of 20 Lis (about 8£ miles), and that this was not in operation
in consequence of the disturbances. This wondrous story, and the
circumstances under which it was imposed upon us, convinced us that
it was an impudent lie, or, at best, an absurd exaggeration. The more
they tried to dissuade us from continuing our trip, the more we persisted
upon the realisation of our plan. Finally the Lintau Chinaman volun-
teered to accompany us to the plantations, but would not make any
promise in regard to visiting any distillery. The departure was fixed for
six o'clock the next morning. We were in a peculiar position, since our
interpreter also appeared to antagonise our aims ; nor had we 'any time
to lose in order to comply with all other arrangements of our expedition.
" The next morning, 17th December, we and our men were ready at
six o'clock, but the two Chinese failed to appear, although we had re-
quested them several times to hurry. We were waiting with our at-
tendants in front of the temple when messengers brought the idle excuse
that the two Chinese had not yet received their breakfast, and that no
carriers for our baggage could be obtained. At a quarter to eight we
sent word that we would start without guides, and when they caught
up with us at ten o'clock we paid no attention to them.
" We finally succeeded in inducing one of the many onlookers to guide
us to one of the distilleries. The march went on very slowly, and the
actions of our interpreter led us to foresee further intrigues. As on the
previous day, our route passed through a hilly country with numerous
side valleys and little ravines. After having passed a number of hills
covered with young cassia trees, we reached a distillery by ten o'clock,
but found out that it was not in operation. We were again told that
this was the only distillery in the neighbourhood. But as luck would
have it, during our brief stay a small trader appeared upon the scene
and offered some thick cassia bark for sale. By small purchases and
promises we succeeded in inducing the man to lead us to another dis-
tillery, and one in operation.
" We returned the same way by which we had come, and at noon-
time arrived at a distillery in full operation. It was a little off the
road, but was much nearer to our starting-point in the morning than the
distillery to which we had been led at first. We met with a very kind
reception by the owner and his employees, and they readily gave us any
desired information. We ascertained that about twenty distilleries
existed in this immediate neighbourhood, and that most of them at the
time were in full operation. We subsequently found out on our return
to Canton that a few slight disturbances had occurred in the cassia
•district^, but the fact remained that we had been treated to absurd
stories and gross lies, probably at the instigation of some dealers in
Loting-Chow.
" The distillery, like all others, is located in a ravine abounding in
