E4 EZ EE THE WASHINGTON POST.WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 22 , 2021
this rich molasses into holiday
dishes. I may not be able to spend
this holiday season back home in
Jerusalem with my family, but a
piece of that home has found its
way into mine in Pennsylvania.
While harvesting two fully
m ature trees and peeling them
seed-by-seed to produce gallons
and gallons of molasses is a
daunting task, it is substantially
easier and more straightforward
if you’re buying just a few from
the grocery store, or even bottled
juice, to make your own molasses
at home. And once you’ve experi-
enced how easy it is to make,
once you taste the difference in
both flavor and consistency, you
might start to understand why
my father finds the process
worth it.
[email protected]never want the bottle to finish.
My father did end up picking
those pomegranates this sum-
mer, too, and my mother, despite
her protestations, seemed not to
mind as much as she expected.
She left him to the kitchen and
found more time to herself, join-
ing forces with him only toward
the end to produce their largest
bounty ever.
When my bottles arrived this
year, I decided I had enough
molasses to put it to good use,
and it has made a regular ap-
pearance in countless dishes,
both already made and those
planned for the holidays.
Pomegranates are a festive
fruit in many cultures, and I
thought there would be no better
way to celebrate the holiday
season than by incorporatingsweet, each better when com-
bined with the other.
Our season lasts through the
fall, and after my father has
peeled every single pomegranate
from the tree, juiced every single
seed and boiled them down to a
molasses, my mother is left to fill
all the jars and bottles that will
line her pantry and go out to
family and friends.
Secretly, she leaves one large
pot aside, which she boils down
substantially more than the oth-
ers to concentrate the sweetness,
just the way I like it. From this
pot, she fills a bottle that she
mails to me every season, wher-
ever in the world I may be living
at the time.
I use it sparingly not because I
don’t like its flavor in my food,
but because it’s precious, and Iblue squeegee on a wooden stick
propping them up was as much a
manifestation of that quote as
anything I had ever come across.
Every year for as far back as I
can remember, my father starts
picking pomegranates in late
August. They are still a mix
between red and green, a hue
verging on gold. He likes them
this way, the acidity so sharp
your lips pucker and your eyes
squeeze shut when you put a
handful of seeds in your mouth.
He insists they make the best
pomegranate molasses. My
mother disagrees, preferring the
fruit at the end of the season,
with some acidity but also sweet-
ness starting to shine through.
I’ve often wondered if they each
go after a fruit that reflects their
character — one sharp, the otherfamily’s own two-month visit
from the United States; and my
mother’s entire life and routine
flipped upside down, her to-do
list heavier with tasks than the
trees were with pomegranates.
She needed a break before the
whole ordeal of pomegranate
season started.
The two pomegranate trees in
our garden in East Jerusalem are
as old as our home, 25 years,
planted soon after my father
finished building it. This season,
they bore so much fruit their
branches drooped under the sun,
like a person weighed down by
life. With a mop, my father
propped those branches up. They
say it is a fine line between
genius and crazy. The sight of
those red orbs, swimming among
the green pointed leaves, with aBY REEM KASSIS
It was the last days of summer,
the sticky heat giving way to a
jasmine-scented evening breeze,
when my mother walked in from
the garden, her cheeks twitching
and her eyes, as we say in Arabic,
sparking flames. I could tell. She
was angry.
“I can’t, I just can’t,” she
started. “I swear to God if your
father starts with the pomegran-
ates now ... I don’t know what I’ll
do with him.”
I knew what was coming.
“He has a basket and he’s
already picking pomegranates
off the tree!”
We had just come out of an
intensely busy month: my broth-
er’s wedding, a 500-person affair,
and its many other functions; my
Pomegranate molasses is simple to make, but adds complex flavorPomegranate Molasses
Makes about 1 cup
Pomegranate molasses is a flavor powerhouse. A balance of sweet
and sour, it gives salad dressings acidity without being lip-puckeringly
sour. In meat marinades, it tenderizes and produces better browning.
Incorporated into sauces and glazes, it adds depth and layers of flavor.
With pomegranate juice easily accessible across the county, you can
make molasses at home and always have this secret sauce on hand to
create dishes that have that “little something extra.” Note that
homemade pomegranate molasses will be slightly thinner than
commercial brands because it has no additives. It doesn’t impact flavor,
and if anything, makes it easier to work with.
For proper storage that allows the molasses to last up to a year,
transfer the cooled molasses to a glass bottle or container and never
allow anything non-sterile to come in contact with it. So, to use, pour it
out of the jar or bottle rather than putting in a spoon, and always keep
refrigerated.
Active time: 15 mins; Total time: 1 hour 30 mins
MAKE AHEAD: The molasses needs to be prepared at least 2 hours in
advance of being used.
Stored in an airtight bottle or container, the molasses can be
refrigerated for up to 1 year.
Recipes from cookbook author Reem Kassis.
Ingredient
l4 cups pomegranate juice (see
NOTE)
Steps
lIn a medium pot over medium-
high heat, bring the pomegran-
ate juice to a boil. Decrease the
heat to medium-low, so the juice
is at a gentle simmer, and cook
until it reduces by about three-
quarters to about 1 cup, and is
the consistency of light syrup —
depending on the d iameter of
your pot, this can take between
1 and 2 hours. Adjust the heat as
necessary to maintain a gentle,
steady simmer and watch the
pot carefully. You don’t have to
stand over it for the entire time,
but do not take your eyes off it
for an extended period. Stir
occasionally and remove any
foam that may appear on the
surface (this applies only for
freshly squeezed juice).
lRemove from the heat and let
cool, uncovered, completely. It
will thicken slightly as it cools,
almost to maple syrup consis-
tency. Transfer the molasses to a
glass bottle with a tightfitting
lid and refrigerate until needed.
lNOTE: You can use freshly
squeezed or store-bought juice
for this recipe. If store-bought,
use a good quality juice (100
percent pomegranate juice
without any additives). If
squeezing the juice fresh, run
the arils through a traditional
juicer or put them in a blender,
but in either case, strain
through a fine-mesh sieve be-
fore proceeding with the recipe.
If using a powerful blender,
such as a Vitamix, do not turn it
to the highest setting, as that
will pulverize the seeds and
cause the juice to be bitter.
Nutrition | Per serving (2 tablespoons): 17
calories, 0 g protein, 4 g carbohydrates, 0 g
fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 3 mg
sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 4 g sugarPomegranate-Glazed Meatballs
5 to 10 servings (makes 30 meatballs)
This recipe takes inspiration from a common dish across the Levant
— fried chicken livers coated in pomegranate molasses. The sticky-
sweet concoction can convert even the most skeptical of diners. The
glaze also provides additional flavor to complement the robust spicing
of the meatballs.
If you have extra meatballs, toss them with tomato sauce for a
flavorful accompaniment to pasta.
Total time: 40 mins
Leftover meatballs can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. Gently reheat
in a preheated 350-degree oven.
From cookbook author Reem Kassis.Ingredients
For the meatballs
lOne (6-inch) pita or 1^1 / 2 ounces
white bread with crust
removed, torn
l^1 / 2 medium tomato (about 4
ounces), roughly chopped
l^1 / 2 medium red or yellow onion
(about 4 ounces), roughly
chopped
l1 clove garlic
l 11 / 2 teaspoons olive oil, plus
more for greasing hands
l^1 / 2 small handful fresh cilantro
leaves and tender stems, plus
more for optional garnish
l^1 / 2 small handful fresh flat-leaf
parsley leaves and tender
stems, plus more for optional
garnish
l 11 / 2 teaspoons fine salt
lGenerous^1 / 2 teaspoon ground
allspice
l^1 / 4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
l^1 / 4 teaspoon freshly groundblack pepper
l^1 / 4 teaspoon ground cumin
l^1 / 2 fresh green chile, such as
serrano (optional)
l^1 / 8 teaspoon ground coriander
(optional)
l1 pound ground beef (can
substitute lamb, veal or a
combination)
For the glaze
l^1 / 4 cup pomegranate molasses
(see related recipe at left) or
store-bought (see NOTE)
l2 tablespoons light brown
sugar (see NOTE)
l2 tablespoons water, plus more
if needed
l1 tablespoon fresh orange juice
l 11 / 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
l 11 / 2 teaspoons tomato paste
l1 small clove garlic, minced or
finely grated
l^1 / 2 teaspoon olive oil
l^1 / 2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
l^1 / 4 teaspoon fine saltl^1 / 8 teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper
lToasted sesame seeds, for
servingSteps
lMake the meatballs: Position a
rack in the middle of the oven
and preheat to 425 degrees. Line
a large, rimmed baking sheet
with parchment paper.
lIn the bowl of a mini food pro-
cessor, combine the pita,
t omato, onion, garlic, olive oil,
cilantro, parsley, salt, allspice,
cinnamon, black pepper and
cumin and the optional chile
and coriander and pulse until
the mixture forms a paste.
lIn a large bowl, mix together the
meat with the bread mixture
until well combined.
lGrease your hands and, using a
1-tablespoon measuring spoon,
scoop out 1 heaping tablespoon
of the meat mixture, roll into a
ball between your palms and
place on the prepared baking
sheet. Continue with the
r emaining meat mixture, greas-
ing your hands with olive oil as
you go to avoid the meat stick-
ing, until you run out of the
mixture.
lRoast the meatballs for 12 to
15 minutes, or until browned
and cooked through.
lMake the glaze: While the meat-
balls are roasting, in a medium
skillet over medium heat, com-
bine the molasses, brown sugar,
water, orange and lemon juices,tomato paste, garlic, olive oil,
thyme, salt and pepper and
bring to a simmer. Decrease the
heat to medium-low and contin-
ue to simmer, stirring frequent-
ly to avoid scorching and stick-
ing on the bottom, until slightly
thickened, about 5 minutes. (If
using store-bought m olasses,
which is thick, you may need to
add a couple more tablespoons
of water.) Remove from the heat.
lWorking in batches, transfer the
cooked meatballs to the pan
with the glaze and gently swirl
to evenly coat. Transfer to a
serving platter and repeat with
the remaining meatballs. If you
have any remaining glaze, you
can drizzle it over the plated
meatballs.
lSprinkle with sesame seeds and
parsley and/or cilantro, if using,
and serve.
lVARIATION: Stuff each meat-
ball with a small cube of
h alloumi cheese before shaping
and baking. An 8-ounce block of
halloumi will be sufficient for
about 40 meatballs.
lNOTE: If using store-bought
pomegranate molasses, which
varies in sweetness levels,
r educe the sugar to 1 table-
spoon.
Nutrition | Per serving (3 meatballs), based
on 10: 182 calories, 8 g protein, 9 g
carbohydrates, 12 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 34
mg cholesterol, 480 mg sodium, 1 g dietary
fiber, 5 g sugar
Recipe tested by Alexis Sargent and Olga
Massov; email questions to
[email protected]minutes or so per side
(depending on the thickness)
should do the trick.
— A.H.Q: My late mother-in-law was a
great cook. Many decades ago,
she watched her mother and
grandmother make some of her
favorites, nut horns and
rugelach. She measured the
ingredients used, then typed up
the recipes. I’ve made them
many times, but I’ve aged out of
the task. Is there any place
online to post recipes to share
with anyone interested? No one
in the family bakes. I would hate
to see them lost forever.
A: You can always create a blog.
It’s been forever since I started
mine, but I’m sure there are
plenty of free/low-cost options
available where you can post the
recipes for anyone to view.
— A.H.it and, alas, I can’t remember
where I saw it. I think it had
something to do with which way
you move your knife when
cutting raw potatoes into cubes/
dice/whatever.
A: You can use a clean kitchen
towel to help grip the potatoes
as you peel them. I’m not
entirely sure about your second
question, but I think if you tilt
the knife to the side once you’ve
cut through the potato and hit
the cutting board, that should
help.
— Aaron HutchersonQ: You’ve given advice on how
to make thin pork chops tasty,
but how can you make them
tender?
A: The key to making pork
chops tender is not to overcook
them, which can happen quickly
when they are thin. A skillet
over high heat and just a coupletimes and see where it gets you.
— B.K.Q: What are the best oranges for
eating and juicing? Certainly not
navel oranges, in my experience.
A: Valencias are popular for
juicing and navels are popular
for eating, though if you don’t
like navels, there’s cara cara
oranges and blood oranges.
— K.S.Q: I’ve got two potato-related
questions. First, is there some
trick to making peeling potatoes
easier? I find that after I’ve
peeled enough where I can’t
hold onto just the skin and the
potato itself, that it’s wet and
slippery and I keep losing my
hold. Is there something I’m
missing? Second, I saw a trick
on Instagram for cutting
potatoes, so they don’t stick to
your knife. Sadly, I did not savecornbread with it and trust that
the oven will kill all the bad
bacteria?
A: You definitely need to pitch
it! Please don’t bake with it, it’s
not worth the risk.
— B.K.Q: Someone gave me a bottle of
citrus-habanero olive oil a nd the
bottle is almost empty. I can
order more online, but it’s
expensive, so I’m wondering if
you can suggest a copycat recipe
so I can make it at home? Or is it
worth the cost to buy more of
the same brand?
A: To replicate what you got, you
might need to do a little
experimenting. I’d start by
infusing some olive oil you like
with peppers and some citrus
peel. Briefly heat the oil and let
it steep with those ingredients
for a little while. Play around
with different amounts andmeat to get sliced. In my home, I
never use the rod but depend
instead of an electric sharpener.
I’m wondering which would be a
better gift for a mostly
vegetarian friend whose knives
are dull and never get
sharpened or honed.
A: Honing rods don’t really
sharpen, and m any knife experts
don’t love electric sharpeners.
But if your friend is not the type
to go to a sharpener, it would be
a useful tool for her.
— Kari SondeQ: One of my favorite recipes
involves marinating raw chicken
in buttermilk with herbs and
spices. But I am always sad to
throw away the marinade once
it’s done. Am I right that the
marinade is basically useless
after cohabitating with raw
chicken, or is there some other
good use for it — s ay, can I makeEach Wednesday at noon, The
Washington Post Food staff fields
questions about all things edible
at live.washingtonpost.com. Here
are edited excerpts from that
chat.
Q: How many days are
rotisserie, fried or baked chicken
from a deli good to eat once you
get them home? We sometimes
take a week to use one up, and
I’m wondering if that explains
stomachaches.
A: The Food and Drug
Administration recommends
using cooked chicken within
four days. You could try freezing
it and pulling it out as needed.
— Becky Krystal
Q: My parents had only a
honing rod to — supposedly —
sharpen the long knives used to
carve meat at the dining table.
Somehow, this sufficed for the
FOOD CHAT EXCERPTS
If you can’t finish supermarket chicken in 4 days, put it in the freezer