very simple and generally applicable, and they often
describe a special method for creating a specific ef-
fect or solving a typical problem. These can be prac-
tical fitting problems, such as that the sleeves are too
short, or a garment too long, too voluminous or too
narrow. They are mostly explorations of different re-
sewing techniques, cutting, assembling and remixing
the parts in new ways. Even though the procedures
are suitable for many garments they come from a
unique situation, as not many will have the same
kind of garment model as I have documented in the
manual. This is the paradox the user has to accept.
The garment produced will never look like the one I
made, even if the manual is strictly followed. So there
is no obligation to stick to the manual. Instead, start
improvising immediately!
The manuals are not disconnected from fashion, but
they are conscious comments on the fashion from
the time the method was made, and transforming
clothes not being in fashion at the time. In this way it
is about “updating” clothes, but at the same time to
recreate them on the edge of what is considered as
“classic”, as they often turn into something suit-like.
In this way they are very different from the hacking-
couture of González.
Although the manuals mimic and comment on fash-
ion their main aim is to show simple methods for
recycling. They expose action spaces and guide the
reader through them. As with the “upcycling” de-
scribed in the beginning they use forms of decon-
struction, but as opposed to the haute couture de-
signers these manuals are about making people
participate and engage in fashion. To attract atten-
tion, raise consciousness, train skills, show what is
possible and lower the threshold into that action
space.
However, these manuals were just one component of
the ReForm projects. Reforming clothes is not a wide
enough interface to create new approaches to fash-
ion, so I also made a few other interventionist kits
for users to try out. Some include iron-on stickers
for redecorating clothes and others have small essays
discussing fashion from various points of view.
LEATHER STYLE
BOLERO
remaking a leather lacket into a hardcore bolero
a >SELF_PASSAGE< method
- take an old long leather jacket. 2. cut it in half above the waist.
- make seams to fix lining. 4. unstitch outer seam along the collar edge and put in the waistline seam into the open
collar edge.
- make pleats to adjust length.
- so the extended collar fits. 7. and the pleats are highly visible from inside. stitch together the collar seam again. 8. so the whole new thing looks something like this.
- strap up, fight those models face-to-face.
©copyleft by >wronsov< Oct 2007
STREAMLINED
PANTS
reforming a pair of pants into a twisted version with ready bent knee for the
streamlined look in the wind.
a >SELF_PASSAGE< method
- get an old pair of pants - preferably quite long. 2. unstitch the hem by the foot.
- lay the bottom parts with the front fold up-wards. cut a semi-circle in the continuation of
the inner leg seam and a diagonal opposite.
5. turn inside out and make a seam along the semicircle - forming the new knee. (the old
front fold is now in the side of the leg)
- cut off just above the knee.
- cut the top part of the pants diagonally just above knee. 7. and unstitch the outer side seam until just some cm under the pocket starts. 8. pin together the leg with the top part. the leg diameter will be smaller than the top.
pleat the unstitched side seam to fit.
- to be something like this - observe the folds under the pocket where the extra width
is taken in. sew together leg parts.
- make channels to make the leg’s width a little narrower. let channels turn from side to
back of calf.
- so it could be something like this in the end - streamlined.
now get out there against the stream!
©copyleft by >wronsov< June 2006
