Set the two bracket pieces on the positioned door rod and locate the three screw holes on the sides of
the metal case. Drill holes in the case to the root diameter of the sheet metal screws and assemble.
The door can be opened and closed now to check any points of binding. If you have binding points, they
can be relieved by further cutting away the firebrick.
Take two 3 inch retaining collars should be used to keep the hinge rod from sliding back and forth. The
retaining collars can be 3 x 20 hex nuts drilled to a full 3-inch opening. Take one of the hex nut faces on
each nut, drill, and tap them to accept a setscrew. Put the retaining collars on the rod, with one on each
side of the hinge bracket, and center the door, position and tighten the collars in place.
Use a gas torch with a small flame to bend the rod, at a point, 2 inches from the hinge bracket. Heat the
hinge rod to a cherry red and bend the rod up toward the top of the oven at an angle slightly less than
90°. This rod also should be bent back about 35° in relation to the front face of the oven.
Finish the counterweight by drilling a 3-inch diameter hole to a depth of about 2 inches. The
counterweight can be made of any round stock with sufficient weight to hold the door tightly closed. The
counter weight can be secured to the end of the rod by epoxy glue or a setscrew.
FINISHING
Now to the back of the oven, attach one Nichrome wire lead to each of the four brass terminals screws.
Attached across the two upper screws, a piece of heavy gauge copper wire that acts as a jumper to
give continuity to the two heating elements.
On the bottom two brass terminals, attach the heavy-duty line cord. Position and fasten the back cover
using the remaining sheet metal screws. This will complete the oven assembly except for painting. Use
aerosol wrinkled finish paint in either black or gray to give the oven a professional finish.