BENCH RIFLING

We will look at the simplest type, the hand-rifling machine first. In this type, the most intricate fixture is the
rifling guide, and probably one of the simplest guides is another rifle barrel of the same twist as you wish
to use. It need not have the same number of grooves however. A good solid clamp or preferably a pair
of clamps is bolted to a good solid bench to hold the barrel. In line with these, and at the same center
height, a third clamp is bolted to hold one end of the barrel that is to be used as a guide.

The fourth clamp is also used on the barrel being used for a guide. This must be a different type from the
other, for this clamp must hold a flanged sleeve, which is clamped, tightly to the guide barrel. In this
sleeve are as many holes drilled in a line around its circumference, as you desire grooves in the barrel
to be rifled. A pin passes through this last clamp at a point in line with the holes drilled in the sleeve.

When the guide barrel is loosened in its clamps, the guide barrel and sleeve can be turned. This will
bring one of the pinholes in the sleeve in line with the pinhole through the clamp in which the sleeve
operates. This pin must fit the holes in clamp and sleeve very closely, the sleeve must fit closely in the
clamp, and it can also be locked by having the clamp split at one side and a clamp bolt passed through
the two sections. The flange on the sleeve is to prevent end motion of the guide barrel.

A rod or tube long enough to pass through both the barrel to be rifled and the guide barrel, with some
several inches to spare, is attached to the rifling head. This rod or tube must have a guide block upon it
to ride in the grooves of the guide barrel to cause the rifling cutter to turn. The simplest way to make this
is to place the rod inside the guide barrel, packed with waste at a point four or five inches below the
muzzle.