SOLDER OR HARD SOLDER TO SOLDER THE NEW BARREL IN PLACE. ONCE SOLDERED
IN PLACE THE RIBS/SIGHTS CAN BE INSTALLED BACK IN PLACE.
It is best to chamber the shotgun barrels to at 95 percent completed before installing, and finish after
installing. If you are careful the chamber ends can be completed and the head space finish before
installing as the shoulder will regulate how far the liner can be inserted. In installing a special fixture
should be made to hold the shotgun barrel end solid while inserting the new barrel/s. They are heated
with a gas burner such as is found on gas stoves, or hot water tanks and when hot, all the surfaces are
well tinned and all are assembled.
With all setting up work done, the rib is positioned against the barrels by means of "C" clamps placed
about six inches apart along the length of the entire rib. A steel rod about 1/2" in diameter, and as long
as the entire rib, should be placed between the clamp and the rib itself.
In this way the radius of the rod will bear more evenly on the convex surface of the rib than would the flat
end of a "C" clamp. A square shaft 3/8" square is placed on the top rib the same length as the rib.
Now begin to carefully heat the work, commencing at the breech, and when sufficiently hot, don't heat
too fast nor too hot, apply solder, using the muriatic acid, zinc, or a good past solder as a flux, to the
joining of the ribs and barrels. Tighten up the clamps until the rib is positively against the barrels and
properly in the center; then with a Butane burner apply the heat, but no more than is necessary to make
the solder flow freely for solder that is over heated tends to become grainy when it hardens.
If the solder is hammered thin it will melt quickly by the heat of the barrels, and will be sucked is until the
space between the different pieces is completely filled. Do this until the entire length of the barrels is
gone over. At the muzzle fit and insert a small piece to fill the space between the barrels and the top rib.
Work from breech towards muzzle over a length of six inches at a time. As the solder melts and begins
to flow freely the solder will seep out between rib and barrels, and the appropriate clamp screw should
be tightened until the rib is fully against the barrel. Any excess solder which flows out from between the
joint should be wiped off with a cloth before it has a chance to harden and set on a portion of either the
barrels or rib where it is not wanted. Repeat this same operation all along the rib until the entire loose
unit is fully and positively joined to the barrels.
Look at the muzzle of the barrels and see if any solder is needed at that point. If there is an opening
between the top and bottom ribs. It is necessary that all the space between the top rib and the barrels
be completely filled with solder, or rust will form there, which will cause problems later to the barrels, and
in time work under the ribs, causing the ribs to come loose from the barrels. This opening should be
filled in by flowing melted solder into the opening and then trimming off the excess with a piece of emery
cloth laid against a flat stick or file.
Allow for normal cooling by the surrounding air and do not pour water on the barrels to induce rapid
cooling as it might seep into some minute crack existing between the rib and barrels and form a steam
pocket. Remove the clamps, and with a very narrow chisel scrape away all traces of solder that show