These will give you the pressure and Viscosity for your Oil Coolant for different types of materials. Do
not forget to put the shield over the end of the barrel, so when you drill through the barrel the oil will not
be sprayed over the entire shop.
STARTER BUSHING
This is the most important part of your conversion, as without this you would not be able to get the drill
started, and if you were able to start the drill, it would either drill a crooked hole, or come out the side.
On the chip box in front, you will have to bore a hole at least 1 1/2 inch. To this, you will need to bolt a
self-aligning bearing and flange. To make sure it is on straight when you bolt it on, you will have to chuck
a 1-inch bar in the lathe. Turn down the end of the bar to just slip fit inside the bearing on the self-aligning
flange. Slide the housing up against the bearing housing and mark the holes. Once marked and the
holes are drilled and tapped, slide the housing back up against the bearing flange and bolt it in place.
The chip box should be made so it can be removed, returned, and still line up exactly in the same place.
On mine, I took the tail stock apart and mounted the chip box on it. That way I was able to keep perfect
alignment. Let me explain the reason why it is so important to have the starter bushing and bearing in