If the part you are going to buff has been plated, you will need to deplate it. The following is two methods
that I have used.
A method that I have used to strip nickel-plating is to immerse the desired parts in a glass container that
is filled with Nitric acid. When using this chemical make sure that the parts are completely covered by
acid, take extra care that the bore and chambers are plugged. Since this solution will dissolve a 0.001"
thick nickel plate in 15 to 20 minutes, you must watch the stripping operation constantly and remove the
parts as soon as they are stripped. When the parts are taken from the fuming nitric acid they must be
dipped into a chromic acid solution for a minute and then very thoroughly rinsed in water. Do not put the
part when you remove it from the Nitric Acid directly into water, as the water will cause the nitric acid
adhering to the surface to etch the steel.
Like hydrochloric acid, nitric acid gives off fumes that settle on and rust everything within several feet of
the container. Nitric acid should be stored, poured, and used either outdoors or in an unused room
where there is nothing that will rust.
ELECTRO DEPLATING
This is another deplating setup that I used in my gun shop. Most of the plated guns are pistols and
revolvers, so that you can get by on a small tank. When you have guns that come into the shop for bluing,
you will be able to strip off the old plating from these guns. Plated guns that are to be refinished in blue
or black must have all the old plating removed, and polishing on the buffing will not do this. The deplating
tank also will remove grease, old bluing, dirt, rust, and the like.
An automobile battery will provide the electric current for deplating, but I prefer a battery charger. The
wires should be insulated cables, with copper rods or heavy wires to contact cathode and anode in the