where remover has been use so it will be neutralize and prevent any additional staining.
To make a neutralizer you have 8 oz. of trisodium phosphate, which is often called TSP in two quarts of
very hot water. Now, add four ounces of laundry detergent such as Oxydol, Dash, or Cheer. Cool the
solution by adding three quarts of cold water. Set this solution back and do not work within until it's
completely cool. If you use any warm liquids where the surface has just been gone over with a paint or
varnish remover, it will cause the already softened wood grain to rise and feather. This will give you real
problems when you begin to smooth it for the final finish.
Rinse the surface with a neutralizer, and then rinse again. Use clean water supply with a cloth that is
barely moist. Next, wipe the surface that once with a dry clothe and is back for two or three hours to let
the wood dry. The wood is wet for a fraction of an inch below the surface, and now you can set up
another piece to strip. It is best to let the piece dry overnight to be sure that it is completely dry.
Now you will need to scrape the wood. Use a cabinet scraper, which is a tool that is used by most
professionals. This is a handy tool and its own way will do most of the work for you. Use very little
pressure on hard dry woods as too much pressure will cause the Cabinet scraper to skid and there will
be led a series of smalls parallel scratches that you will have a hard time to remove. Always use the
scraper with the grain of the wood, and never against or across the grain. Use it with a straight long
smooth strokes until you've gone over the entire surface. You need to remember why you're doing is a
really scraping, but shaving. The scraper will remove the patches of fuzz on the surface of the wood.
You might encounter long stubborn streaks, and if you do switch from a straight scraper to one with a
curved edge. If you're working on a curved surface such as at the see of a wooden chair, use a strong
neck scraper to make the job go faster. Turn this scraper to write angles, and you can match almost any
inside curved on a piece of furniture. On molding lines, grooves, turnings, and carvings, one of the little
nooker's described is invaluable. You can get into some of these quite well with the Merit flex-0-sand
tool used in your electric drill. I would avoid using the tool on intricate carvings has any sanding done on
a carving is going to remove some of the surface as it gets into the nicks and cranny.
As you work, wipe away the scrape-off grit occasionally, for it will contain small glass-like needle-sharp
bits of old varnish or lacquer that had escaped the remover and is practically invisible. Also if you do not
wipe them off they will put small lines on the surface that you might not notice into you begin to apply the
stains or varnish? Be careful and watch for what woodworkers call "crazy grain", which are little flaws in
the wood, which are nobody's fault. They are caused by an accident of nature as the tree grew. You may
need to go over the work on the spots with 000 four 0000 steel wool moistened with mineral spirits, and
then go over it began with the scraper until it disappears.
PAINT AND VARNISH REMOVERS
You will probably use a paint or varnish remover that you will be doing a complete refinishing jobs.