The Times - UK (2022-01-01)

the times Saturday January 1 2022

48 Travel

Relax by the wood-burner

with leek fondue were wickedly rich

rewards for a long winter walk, but

left no room for retro desserts such

as rum baba with a boozy plum

ice cream.

What’s near by?

The inn sits at the highest point of

Holcombe village, which is surrounded

by footpaths. Glastonbury Tor makes for

a rewarding yomp, while the museums

and galleries of Bath, the cathedral at

Wells and the independent stores of

Frome are within a 30-minute drive.

Susan d’Arcy

end of the beds. They’re fuss-free,

favouring herb pots over artwork. The

bathrooms, stocked with luxurious Noble

Isle toiletries, are spotless but feel dated

and are due to be renovated this year.

Dinner is the focus, served in a

restaurant that echoes the rooms’

contemporary moodboard. Having

nodded to the fruit and vegetables

earlier in the day, it would have been

rude not to start with the salt-baked

heritage beetroot and succulent

partridge with pears, while the goose

breast, parsnip and vanilla puree and

goose fat potatoes and pan-fried skate

reception’s moss-coloured panelled walls,

welcoming wood-burner, sink-in sofas

and stacks of magazines.

Express the faintest interest in the

garden and Lucas will give you a tour,

pointing out what will be on your plate

that night. For the full Monty Don

experience, book one of the three lodges

tucked between the raised beds: the

Roost is our pick, with slatted wooden

walls that give it shepherds’ hut charm.

The eight rooms in the main house come

in restful pastel shades; some have eye-

catching cane or cast-iron beds, exposed

stone walls or free-standing tubs at the

What’s the story?
The chefs Alan Lucas and Caroline
Gardiner were ahead of the pandemic
curve, leaving successful catering
careers in London in November 2019 for
a better work-life balance in rural
Somerset. They have transformed this
rundown village pub near Bath into a
smart restaurant with rooms. Central to
their concept is stylish sustainability
and a kitchen garden with a polytunnel
big enough to supply fresh produce
year-round for their dining room.

What do we like?
There’s an uncomplicated friendliness
to this 17th-century whitewashed inn,
which overlooks cattle-studded
countryside on the northeastern edge
of the Mendip Hills, starting with the

The Times

hotel guide

The

Holcombe

Somerset

Food {{{{{
Location {{{{{
Rooms {{{{{

MARK BOLTON PHOTOGRAPHY

Rooms are restful and fuss-free

Susan d’Arcy was a

guest of the Holcombe.

B&B doubles from £170;

mains from £17

(theholcombe.com)