Cities of God: The Religion of the Italian Communes 1125-1325

(Darren Dugan) #1

TheMotherChurch 27 


tery.^73 In hisCommedia, when Dante meets his ancestor Cacciaguida in


heaven and speaks to him of their native city, the poet refers to his fellow


Florentines as the ‘‘flock of San Giovanni,’’ the offspring of the city baptis-


tery:


Tell me, my dear forbear, about your ancestors;
and what were the years like
that are accounted to your youth?
Tell me about the flock of San Giovanni,
how large was it then, and who were those
in it worthy of highest rank.^74

The attachment to the baptistery was almost physical, certainly experiential.


As a small boy, the Franciscan Salimbene heard from his father, Guido di


Adamo, how, when construction of the new Parma baptistery began in 1196 ,


he and other men of the city put stones into the foundation as memorials of


their families. The construction project was a long one; the Parma baptistery


opened twenty years later for the Easter baptisms of 1216 (fig. 11 ).^75 Those


who visit it today will agree it was worth the wait. Fra Salimbene’s house


was right next door.^76 In his chronicle, the friar proudly records his own


baptism there at Easter in 1221.^77 Civic attachment to the baptistery survived


to the end of the Middle Ages. In 1472 , for example, the citizens of Perugia


argued for restoration and repairs to their cathedral complex principally


because of their shared baptism there.^78 The Mother Church’s monopoly on


baptisms itself perdured into the modern period. Bologna, for example, did


not have baptismal churches in its suburbs until the late 1600 s. Until the mid-


1900 s, all Florentines received baptism in the city baptistery of San Giovanni.


Baptism attached one to a place; the site of baptism determined tithing


responsibilities.^79 The baptistery was not merely the site of baptisms. Other


religious services, public and private, occurred there. Eventually it replaced


the cathedral as the place to keep the carroccio and the city’s military ban-


ners—and those captured from enemies in battle. The baptistery was the


shrine of the republic. In 1262 , after Vicenza had thrown off the yoke of the


tyrant Ezzelino da Romano, one of the restored republican government’s



  1. Cf. Enrico Cattaneo, ‘‘LaBasilica Baptisteriisegno di unita`ecclesiale e civile,’’Atti del convegno di
    Parma ( 1976 ), 29 – 31.

  2. Dante,Paradiso, 16. 22 – 27 : ‘‘Ditemi dunque, cara mia primizia,quai fuor li vostri antichi, e quai
    fuor li anniche si segnaro in vostra pu ̈erizia:ditemi dell’ovil di San Giovanniquanto era allora, e chi
    eran le gentitra esso degne di piu`alti scanni.’’
    75 .Chronicon Parmense ab Anno 1038 usque ad Annum 1338 ,ed. Giuliano Bonazzi ( 1216 ),RIS^29 : 9 : 8 – 9.

  3. Salimbene,Cronica( 1285 ), 849 – 50 , Baird trans., 590.

  4. Ibid., 47 , trans., 8.

  5. U. Nicolini, ‘‘Pievi e parrocchie in Umbria nei secolixiii–xv,’’Pievi e parrocchie,ed. Erba et al.,
    2 : 879 – 80.

  6. Valsecchi,Interrogatus, 107 n. 315 , commenting on Enrico Cattaneo,Cittae religione nell’etadei comuni
    (Milan: Vita e Pensiero, 1979 ), 41.

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