58 Chapter 4
history in Asia and the Central Americas dates back over 7000 years. The
spinning of animal fibres into threads and yarn seems to have developed rela-
tively late on. In Mesopotamia, woven woollen cloth was being produced just
6000 years ago, while the use of silk, in China, may only date from early in
the 3rd millennium BC.
It was the search for a substitute for the luxurious but expensive silk fibres that
precipitated the revolution in synthetic polymer chemistry of the last century
and settled the fortunes of companies such as Courtaulds, DuPont and ICI.
Nylon, polyester and acrylic threads, together with polyurethane elastomers, now
constitute a large part of the textile market along with the regenerated cellulose
fibres like viscose rayon and their modified counterparts, the acetates. These
modern materials and even newer advanced smart and techno fibres are already
findingtheir place in museum collections, presenting fresh challenges to con-
servators and conservation scientists. The topic of modern materials ageing is
ripe for research.
We will leave a discourse on aspects of saving 20th century textiles until
sometime in the future, when more should be known about their decay. For
now we will concentrate on the fibres that make up the mainstay of the objects
that currently come under the textile conservator’s eye, i.e.the natural fibres.
We can categorise these as plant fibres or animal fibres, among which there
are numerous examples. We will, however, just select linen, and silk and wool
respectively, choosing a single reasonably representative plant fibre, but two
animal fibres since these are quite distinct. Our three exemplars will serve
well to illustrate the general intricacy of natural fibre design, our depth of
of Silk 4.1 The Chemical Composition and Microstructure
posites, and our level of understanding of the mechanisms of natural polymer
ageing. Linking to the case studies will then show how such detailed aware-
ness of the underlying science can lead to better-informed choices for the
long-term preservation of our textile heritage.
3 Case Study 1: Linen Fibres and the VictorySail
Recently, we had the privilege to work on an object of major national maritime
importance, the fore topsail of HMS Victory. The sail from Admiral Lord
Nelson’s flagship was extensively damaged during the Battle of Trafalgar,
fought on 21st October 1805. It was holed by musket and cannon fire, and a long
gash was torn through the fabric as a mast smashed to the deck. The sail’s origin
can be traced back to Baxter Brothers Linen and Jute Manufacturers of Dundee;
it was in use by 1803 and was probably employed at sea for roughly 18 months
prior to the battle. Not only does it represent a link to one of the most crucial sea
battles in British history, it is also believed to be the only surviving sail from
the period. So, besides being one of the largest and most significant naval tex-
tile artefacts, it bears key witness to the early 19th century sailmakers’ art.