Stela 3 has been dubbed “Uncle Sam” for its pointy beard. Th e
early to middle preclassic Olmec Wrestler from Veracruz also
has a beard and moustache, as does one of Los Danzantes
(Th e Dancers) from Monte Albán, Mexico.
Other fi gural sculptures (sculptures that represent hu-
man beings) reveal still other kinds of bodily ornamenta-
tion that must have been practiced during this period. First
and foremost are the holes left for earspools and lip plugs,
which are larger than traditional pierced jewelry and require
stretching of the skin. For example, a preserved wooden mask
from the Olmec culture has stylized, rectangular ears with
large holes in the lobes, indicating the use of earplugs during
this period. One fi gure of a man from the Nayarit region of
western Mexico (400 b.c.e.–150 c.e.) has bands around the
upper arms and large rings in the nose and ears and a rela-
tively elaborate hairstyle.
Of particular interest during this time in Central Amer-
ica was the harvesting and sculpting of jade in Costa Rica,
particularly during the period 300 b.c.e. to 700 c.e. Orna-
mental objects in general—and jade, in particular—delineat-
ed social rank at a time when such distinctions were gaining
importance in Central America. Personal adornment carried
with it not only socioeconomic signifi cance but religious im-
portance as well. Th e fi rst group in Mesoamerica to work jade
was the Olmec, in the fi rst or second millennium b.c.e. It is
unclear whether jade working began indigenously in Costa
Rica (ca. 500 b.c.e.) or as a result of intercultural contact (or
some combination of the two). During the initial period (500
b.c.e.–300 c.e.), Costa Ricans carved pendants of jade, which
may have been strung with beads. At the site of La Regla on
the Gulf of Nicoya, archaeologists found a jade pendant and
wooden beads that were likely strung together (ca. 500 b.c.e.).
Th e use of jade in Olmec cultures yielded some particu-
larly interesting and beautiful objects. One jade pendant is in
the form of a winged fi gure, though the wings are schematic
and diffi cult to associate with a particular bird or beast. Th e
pendant has holes, which would have allowed it to be attached
to a ruler’s headband.
Burial sites of the Chavín culture (900 b.c.e.–200 b.c.e.)
in what is now Per u off er insight into the adornment practices
of ancient Andean peoples. At these sites archaeologists have
found bone hairpins used to fi x hairstyles and mantles (some
with beads affi xed to them), stone beads, earplugs made of
wood (some with white shell attached to them), beaded neck-
laces of stone and shell, and a necklace with gold discs em-
bossed with a serpentine design.
In the middle to later part of the Chavín civilization,
as in other ancient American civilizations, these ornaments
ser ved to indicate the wearer’s socia l status. As they are today,
items craft ed with precious material and fi ne technology were
prized. At a burial in Chongoyape, Peru, archaeologists found
gold ornamental items, such as headbands, beads entirely in
gold, pottery beads encased in gold, headdresses, rings, and
pins. Metalworking was common in the Americas, especially
using gold and silver in South and Central America.
At the Hacienda Almendral near Chongoyape, archae-
ologists discovered decorated gold crowns and earspools.
Crowns were formed into a cylinder shape similar to an up-
side-down bucket. Th e gold was either molded or pressed into
both abstract patterns and faces of people or animals. Th e ear
fl ares had decorations similar to elaborate sun rays extending
outward from the circular base. Another clue to the practices
of hair grooming during this period is linked to the presence
in the burial of tweezers, which may have been used by men
to remove facial hair.
Burial items were deeply symbolic and signifi cant, and
the placement of the objects as well as their quantity and ma-
terial were meaningful. One burial included a body with a
quartz crystal in its mouth, which was of importance in terms
of its placement and the value this civilization placed on
quartz. Archaeologists also have found fascinating artifacts
in the burial sites of rulers in Paracas, Peru (750 b.c.e.–100
c.e.). In addition to clothing and headbands, the sites also
contained wigs made of human hair.
Some of the most spectacular examples of ancient An-
dean ornamental craft smanship came from the site of Sipán,
Peru (early Moche culture, 100 c.e.–700 c.e.). Sipán had three
tombs fi lled with extraordinary examples of Andean gold
work. In Tomb 3 (known as the Tomb of the Old Lord), ar-
chaeologists discovered a necklace made of 10 gold “spider”
beads. Th e back of each bead was formed by a concave disc
and the front of a human head with a spider body, with thin
strands of gold forming the legs and web.
Th e Hopewell Indians of North America (ca. 200 b.c.e.–
400 c.e.) left burial sites that also provide modern-day archae-
ologists and anthropologists with indications of what ancient
American adornment looked like. In Hopewell burials archae-
ologists have discovered earspools, which oft en were made of
copper, a costly material commonly used in jewelry. Earspools
also were made of silver, sometimes in conjunction with cop-
per, providing a contrast in color. Because ancient American
cultures were deeply steeped in symbolism, the circular shape
of the earspool probably was meaningful. Th e presence in
a burial of more earspools than the deceased was capable of
wearing indicates that their mere inclusion was signifi cant.
Th ey would have testifi ed to the social status of their owner.
Other copper items found at burial sites were bracelets
and beaded necklaces. Copper was combined with leather to
create what is known as a headdress but which more closely
resembles a contemporary skullcap or ski cap. Th e leather was
fashioned to fi t over the skull to the ears, and a curved copper
plate decorates the front middle portion of the headdress. In
addition to copper beads, the Hopewell made necklaces of ma-
rine conch shells and beads in the shape of animals and birds.See also art; ceramics and pottery; clothing and foot-
wear; death and burial practices; festivals; health
and disease; laws and legal codes; metallurgy; reli-
gion and cosmology; sacred sites; social organiza-
tion; trade and exchange.14 adornment: The Americas