The Times - UK (2022-01-19)

(Antfer) #1

the times | Wednesday January 19 2022 5


fashion


Paris

Dior’s spring/summer 1991 show


Noughties, with their ultra-low-rise
jeans and hip-hugging belts? The
tunics over leggings, A-line shifts and
low-slung skirts? All à la mode well
before cameraphones.
The modern condition of being
constantly aware of how we appear
on screen has had a lot to do with the
return of the cinch. Take it from
somebody who looks through old


celebrity photos regularly:
the lower your waistband,
the shorter your legs, the
flatter your bum and the
rounder your stomach appear
— and that’s just the gym-
honed A-list.
For anybody mortal, not
defining your waist is robbing
Peter without even paying
Paul. How unfair it was to
laugh at Simon Cowell’s high
waistbands while sporting some of the
least flattering trousers ever created.
Designers such as Vivienne
Westwood and Roland Mouret —
he of the Galaxy dress — have long
known, and deployed, the power of
the hourglass. Yet it wasn’t until Kate
Winslet appeared at a premiere in a
Stella McCartney illusion gown in 2011
that the wider fashion industry began
to rethink. Then, anybody highlighting
their waist was thought of
euphemistically as “vintage-inspired”,
doing so perhaps because of their
“fuller figure” (at the time anything
above a size 10).
Thankfully we are now living in
a more body-positive era. Indeed,
the focus in recent years on
Kardashian-proportioned
bottoms has made waists the
focus of pretty much any outfit

Then: 1990


xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

— and I include in that lockdown
leggings and joggers.
Who among us high-waisted Lycra
aficionados could now return to the
type of leggings that used to cling on
at hip height? Why create extra
lumps and bumps when you can
work with the topography of
your anatomy?
I first noticed the importance of
my midsection when returning to
work after my daughter was born.
Over the past four years, I have
been five different clothing sizes
and I looked tidier at every stage
in outfits that included some
definition in that area. Perhaps
the pendulum will swing back
to those long-torsoed looks at
some point but, for now at
least, enjoy not having to hoick
your trousers back up every
two minutes.
Twitter: @harrywalker1

You’ll see endless


pairs of jeans


that button above


the tummy


Silver is back:


will you ditch


the gold hoops?


C


hances are that the
decoration hanging from
your neck, wrist and earlobes
right now is one shade:
gold. Not for long, I’m afraid.
The powers that be (in fashion that is)
have declared that silver jewellery is
set to make a comeback after seasons
in purgatory.
At Tory Burch silver cuffs wrapped
the power arms of its spring/summer
2022 catwalk models; the necks of
Chanel’s muses were draped with long,
burnished silver chains. Street-stylers
at the men’s shows in Milan and Paris
this month have swapped their gold
hoops for the trendier alternative,
and Zendaya has been wearing silver
earrings on the Euphoria red carpet.
The good news? It’s the quickest
way to update your look, and you
probably have some at the bottom of
the trinket box. Just be sure that
whatever you fish out is made of
sterling silver (and so won’t turn
your January pallor any more green).
Hannah Rogers

Influencer Paris
Alexandra
Lapp

COVER AND BELOW: GETTY IMAGES

The new It belt,
£680,
valentino.com

£95,
uk.missoma.com

£98,
barjewellery.com

£15.99,
zara.com

£250,
annikainez.com

£80,
mejuri.com

Now: 2021

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